Don, there's some interesting creative effects going on there! It's a real play on the sunlight and you've made the flashes seem like an extension of the suns reflections.

Off camera flash is certainly a 'next step', but I often try and promote the simpler stuff, if only becuase it's often more realistic for us earthly mortal flash photographers So many times I've seen books or internet articles about flash that are just frankly pie in the sky for many of us, in the scenarios, models used and complexities of set-up. I'd like to see more of us using simple, manageable techniques with equipment that we can actually carry and set up in practice in the real world. Often, for me at least with kids in tow, that does mean a single on-camera flash. So it's about extracting the best possible results within those constraints.

Thanks also Papa, I'll check the fine tuning ....it may be the D FA28-105 that needs attention. Am I right to assume that the camera AF adjustment s done the same way for both screw drive and DC focus types ?

Thanks Gareth, I'm pleased you saw them

It's difficult to say exactly what's going wrong .....if it's as extreme as you say it sounds like the flash fired at full power, so maybe some connection or communication failure between the camera and flash ....? There needs to be an aperture coupled lens and active AF points for the system to work properly.

I'm not entirely convinced myself about the reliability of F series lenses with P-TTL (I don't get good results with my F35-70), but I've been unable to persuade more experienced Pentax flash photographers than me to buy into this .....we lack sufficient knowledge about exactly what additional information the FA series, and more specifically the KAF2 mount, brought into the equation.

So long as the settings are appropriate for the distance,as per my post earlier, and there is a good amount of ambient light, then the P-TTL flash exposure should just add enough light to balance the subject with the background. This is commonly termed 'fill flash', but I dislike the term because the reality is that this 'fill' light actually often makes up the main light source on the subject, as it does in my examples here, where without it the faces would be in quite deep shadow.

I'd try again with a more modern lens. The reality of life, for me at least, is that too often it is impossible to cart around and set up wireless flashes, and so direct on-camera flash is the only choice .....but controlled and nicely balanced with the ambient it can bring photos to life.

Perhaps we won't hold our breaths Algi ....

Just another thought, what lenses are you using? P-TTL is only compatible with F or FA series types with the aperture ring set to A, plus all DA/D FA and later types ..... ie NOT manual focus lenses.

Damn it, there goes my planned 'Midnight Swans at Waddon Ponds' photoshoot !

Thanks Fishbones, I'm glad you liked them

Peter, some nice examples there I see in the 2nd you've reduced the background brightness a little, and the flash exposures look very good.

Hi Richard, that 2nd Curtain sync example looks like a good bit of fun! Regarding the overexposures, this is perhaps a common enough problem. I'd say its often an issue with the minimum flash to subject distances being used (ie, you're too close) for the settings being used, namely aperture and ISO. Could you take a look at the post I made on my other thread about this issue, where another member was having the same problem ....

link

I don't know if the Shanny flash has the range/distance indicator, but if so its a very useful guide. Otherwise there should be flash to subject distance tables in the user manual. I think the Guide Number is similar to the Pentax AF-540FGZ, so those figures I quoted on the other thread should be near enough for you also.

Hi David, yes, these are all direct on-camera flash. Outdoors there's very little chance to bounce off anything, so unless you can set-up an umbrella or softbox (lets face it, that's rare in the real world!) then direct flash is the only way.

I guess the main point from the examples here was that outdoors, direct on-camera flash can work, and helps to bring out the subjects in a complementary way and balance the lighting in the scene.

The main reason why flash can be overpowering is flash to subject distances that are too small for the aperture and ISO settings ..... so generally I'd say avoid auto-ISO at all costs, as this can play havoc with things. Also choose sensible ISOs and Apertures for the working distances. You can get help with this from both the Flash Manual and the Range and Distance indicator on the flash itself ... here are a few examples of the minimum possible distance for correct P-TTL exposures using the AF-540FGZ ...

ISO 200 - F2.8 - 24mm Flash Head Zoom - 2.0m
ISO 200 - F5.6 - 24MM Flash Head Zoom - 1.0m

So straight away, say we actually had ISO 800 here instead, then our minimum distance at F2.8 would be 8 metres ! That's quite a long way, and anything closer than this will be overexposed because the flash cannot cut its power sufficiently. So you can see how important the ISO can become in determining the exposure capability. Fortunately we have the range displayed on the AF-540FGZ when shooting with direct flash, and this will automatically update each time we make a change to Aperture or ISO. Staying well within the displayed limits will help to ensure good exposures.

Going back to the example above with ISO 200 - F5.6 - 24mm Flash Head Zoom, the flash zoom position will have its effect also, and the table in the manual shows that zooming in from 24mm to 58mm will cause the minimum distance to increase to 1.4m, again pushing you back from the subject.

It all worked well clearly ... The 'flag' type bounced approach is definitely the way to go indoors, when manipulating umbrellas or softboxes might be hazardous to health and safety!