Could you be a bit clearer ... that is, what displays on the LCD menu when you change the values, what is the description of that item that is displayed? And how do you know (from the photo taken) that 'it doesn't function at all' ? Do you mean that NR remains on when you want it off?

There is another setting for NR, that controls the ISO range that the NR operates in - if you're shooting at ISO 100 it may not be operating anyway. I think this function is actually the 'Dark Frame Subtraction' feature, not really noise reduction as we think of it on a computer - is that right ? I think its 'Long Exposure Noise Reduction' which is really Dark Frame Subtraction. It only kicks in if the range is set and you're within the ISO range set, and the exposure is long.

I like it, well done! It's an effective and quirky family portrait, and the wide angle has been used brilliantly - the way you have the different subject elements placed around the frame and the relaxed fun interactions between them is all handled expertly!

The girl on the right, the contrast between her top half and background is quite severe, maybe just an artifact on the web, but it does give her a pasted and cut look - maybe you could check that out.

I love the beautiful detail in the foreground walkway on the first one - I think here I can see the '645 effect'! The halo is probably a result of the brightness adjustments between the sky in processing - you could perhaps lessen the effect with a bit of careful blur tool rubbing very finely around the mount edge.

2nd one doesn't appeal too much, I don't like the effect around the sun, but I appreciate it doesn't matter much what camera you use, a direct sun shot will always have this problem.

The third, I agree with David on the lower crop, you could experiment with a few different shapes - I've been enjoying trying out square crops lately

I need to correct a mistake I made earlier when I said the K7 & K5mk1 didn't have this auto-iso feature ... That's wrong, they do and I've found mine on the control panel I've seen it and even set it, so can't understand why it didn't register when snoops first posted this ... I think its because its practical significance is actually quite obscure, so its great to have this discussion!

It was interesting what Matt said about the green button restoring auto-iso defaults. I tried it out in Tav mode, with a range of 200-1600, and thought it was of limited use as you keep' hitting the buffers' on the aperture parameter mostly. I guess it would be more practical on a later model where you could safely set a much wider range?

I also wonder if the memory menu item for ISO has a part to play? I use this on to retain my last set ISO when switching the cameras on again, which works for me. If it was of would the auto-ISO setting have ah influence over what starting iso is chosen? I can only assume that the overall lighting levels would also influence this?

What are the semi-automatic modes specifically? I thought, apart from Tav, the ISO remained fixed at exactly what you set out at? Does it ever actually change apart from direct user adjustment with the ISO button, apart from Tav?

Well yes, but almost nothing at all has been said about the specific ISO control options that the OP asked about! I'm still assuming these choices to restrict auto ISO changes only apply to green mode, or perhaps P? In this way it's similar to the program line options for p mode. On any case, for real life photography I can only surmise the differences between the options would result in such subtle effects as to be fairly pointless?

Mostly were want hands-on firm control over ISO as we're making quality balancing - type judgements about the weighting of ISO and, say, shutter speed, depending on the intended output, our the lighting conditions.

Thanks for those extras details. That control option is not available on the K7 (and most likely K5 mk1 either), so I haven't any experience sorry ... Must be a newer feature on the II series cameras.

My suspicion though is that it probably only applies to shooting in the ' green square' mode, where you have no control over the exposure settings at all, so for most of us probably has no effect ... ?

Hi snoops, could you be more specific about about the exact menu / control item you are looking at plus the exact descriptions of the 3 options ...

Thanks , yes I was blessed on a number of beautiful mornings with great light which gave different potential as it rose from dawn through to about 8am, when I would pack it in and head back to reality for breakfast time

Thanks also Russ and Gajan, the other long zoom shot of Swanage was popular also, looking as it did further into the Bay. I was pleased with the performance of the old 75-150 plus teleconverter combo for these shots ... Do I need a DA 300? Maybe I'll get away without it?

Fair point about the foreground plant there Russ, I couldn't get much else in close there without moving down to steep ground. Thanks again all for the replies

Back to the first one, it's a thought provoking idea, as David intended... My thought is that with such large juxtaposition between OOF and in focus zones in an image, it generally works better the other way round, ie a larger OOF area in the foreground and a small point of focus further into the scene ... What do others think?

Lovely portrait, nice soft lighting.I also find the odd eye reflections a distraction. I wonder, would this have been better shot with a subtle mix of natural and flash lighting .... Perhaps a slow-sync setting enough shutter time to record some ambient light, plus a small burst of flash bounced upwards with the catchlight panel raised to record a single spot in each eye and give that needed ' lift'. ...?