All Forum Comments
Comment by MattMatic posted on Metz 36 AF-4 on istDL at 16/11/2011 - 12:25
Had a quick read of the Metz manual... just some things worth checking:
* Double check the "SERVO" mode is OFF. (Servo is "dumb" slave trigger that only allows "M" mode on the flash)
* Presumably the SL mode is enabled (otherwise it wouldn't trigger)
* Presumably the channel number matches
* Check that you don't have EV compensation on the flash
There's also a Firmware update for the 50AF1 on the Metz.de site - there might be some issue of compatibility in older firmware.
http://www.metz.de/en/flash-units/firmware-download-flash-units/mecablitz-50-af-...
It's definitely odd, since it's the camera that performs the exposure evaluation on the P/preflash, and instructs the remote flash how to behave (by a high speed digital pulse encoding on the flash output I believe). The flash can then adjust from the base exposure (ie with the EV adjustment).
HTH!
Matt
* Double check the "SERVO" mode is OFF. (Servo is "dumb" slave trigger that only allows "M" mode on the flash)
* Presumably the SL mode is enabled (otherwise it wouldn't trigger)
* Presumably the channel number matches
* Check that you don't have EV compensation on the flash
There's also a Firmware update for the 50AF1 on the Metz.de site - there might be some issue of compatibility in older firmware.
http://www.metz.de/en/flash-units/firmware-download-flash-units/mecablitz-50-af-...
It's definitely odd, since it's the camera that performs the exposure evaluation on the P/preflash, and instructs the remote flash how to behave (by a high speed digital pulse encoding on the flash output I believe). The flash can then adjust from the base exposure (ie with the EV adjustment).
HTH!
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on K-5 Metz Wireless totally Underexposed at 15/11/2011 - 09:03
Glad you got it resolved
Comment by MattMatic posted on *ist ds problem at 10/11/2011 - 08:42
Sounds to me like the lens is not stopping down
(i.e. the camera is thinking it is selecting f/16, but in reality the aperture blades are not closing in)
Have you another lens to try (just to eliminate that)?
(You can remove the lens and actuate the aperture 'finger' manually to see if the lens is ok)
Matt
(i.e. the camera is thinking it is selecting f/16, but in reality the aperture blades are not closing in)
Have you another lens to try (just to eliminate that)?
(You can remove the lens and actuate the aperture 'finger' manually to see if the lens is ok)
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on *ist ds problem at 09/11/2011 - 17:32
Interesting....
Of course, LED lighting is very narrow spectrum. Even white is either three narrow band colours (and your eyes see as white, but dSLR may not), or they use LED to excite phosphor to create white.
Some seriously challenging LED lighting examples here.
B&W might be your friend in these cases
Matt
Of course, LED lighting is very narrow spectrum. Even white is either three narrow band colours (and your eyes see as white, but dSLR may not), or they use LED to excite phosphor to create white.
Some seriously challenging LED lighting examples here.
B&W might be your friend in these cases
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on LED theatre lanterns at 31/10/2011 - 22:24
LOL@Don
My suggestion for the K5...
* Use Av mode on camera, between f/5.6 and f/8
* Set the ISO to a fixed ISO between 800 and 3200 (1600 if you don't shoot RAW)
* Preferably shoot RAW (it'll help if anything goes wrong!)
* Try and bounce the flash if the ceiling isn't too high, and only if it's a white ceiling
Reasons: try and get the camera within 1 or 2 stops of ambient light without the flash, and let the flash fill in the rest. (Some make the mistake of setting something crazy like ISO80, f/22, 1/125s and expect the flash to create a massive blast of light... which of course it cannot! All flashguns have definite limits). Do be aware also of the minimum flash distance as well - if you shoot too close, you'll get overexposed images (using higher ISO increases the minimum distance).
The K5 is pretty well behaved on P-TTL flash (as it has 77 segment metering in the K5/K7).
Oh yes - also, if you get a chance, try out the flash and settings as much as you can so you know what to use on the day
Matt
My suggestion for the K5...
* Use Av mode on camera, between f/5.6 and f/8
* Set the ISO to a fixed ISO between 800 and 3200 (1600 if you don't shoot RAW)
* Preferably shoot RAW (it'll help if anything goes wrong!)
* Try and bounce the flash if the ceiling isn't too high, and only if it's a white ceiling
Reasons: try and get the camera within 1 or 2 stops of ambient light without the flash, and let the flash fill in the rest. (Some make the mistake of setting something crazy like ISO80, f/22, 1/125s and expect the flash to create a massive blast of light... which of course it cannot! All flashguns have definite limits). Do be aware also of the minimum flash distance as well - if you shoot too close, you'll get overexposed images (using higher ISO increases the minimum distance).
The K5 is pretty well behaved on P-TTL flash (as it has 77 segment metering in the K5/K7).
Oh yes - also, if you get a chance, try out the flash and settings as much as you can so you know what to use on the day
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on flash set -up help needed at 31/10/2011 - 22:09
Also note that TTL requires a separate sensor for picking up the reflected light off the film.
P-TTL, on the other hand, uses the same light metering that you use for non-flash work. For the K5+K7 that means 77 segment metering (which wasn't possible with TTL).
That said, don't discount "A" mode flash, or "M" mode flash (for studio work) Depending on the environment and situation these modes can actually be easier that P-TTL and TTL
Matt
P-TTL, on the other hand, uses the same light metering that you use for non-flash work. For the K5+K7 that means 77 segment metering (which wasn't possible with TTL).
That said, don't discount "A" mode flash, or "M" mode flash (for studio work) Depending on the environment and situation these modes can actually be easier that P-TTL and TTL
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on TTL v p-TTL at 31/10/2011 - 11:43
Just to clarify...
Out of the digital bodies, only the *ist-D and *ist-Ds (maybe *ist-Ds2) supported TTL "original" flash as well as P-TTL.
All other dSLR bodies only support P-TTL.
However, you can use "A" and "M" flashes on all Pentax bodies
It depends what you want the flash for
If it's for studio style work then flashes with adjustable power settings on "M" mode is the way to go. These can generally be really, really, really cheap flash guns connected with "PC" connectors (or slave flash cubes). Two of such flash guns (and possibly a very low power third as a trigger) make an ideal setup.
So, the Polaroid flash guns aren't that good a deal, I'm afraid as they are 'old' TTL. Your money's better off getting some cheapy-cheap ones that have "A" and a few "M" power adjustments
Matt
Out of the digital bodies, only the *ist-D and *ist-Ds (maybe *ist-Ds2) supported TTL "original" flash as well as P-TTL.
All other dSLR bodies only support P-TTL.
However, you can use "A" and "M" flashes on all Pentax bodies
It depends what you want the flash for
If it's for studio style work then flashes with adjustable power settings on "M" mode is the way to go. These can generally be really, really, really cheap flash guns connected with "PC" connectors (or slave flash cubes). Two of such flash guns (and possibly a very low power third as a trigger) make an ideal setup.
So, the Polaroid flash guns aren't that good a deal, I'm afraid as they are 'old' TTL. Your money's better off getting some cheapy-cheap ones that have "A" and a few "M" power adjustments
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Cheap Flash at 25/10/2011 - 20:07
One review says:
From memory, I think some Nikon or Canon triggers will work a bit with Pentax, but some require a minor mod to work properly with Pentax...
Matt
Quote:
You do have to disable the standby function on your flash to avoid misfiring.
( http://dptnt.com/2009/12/ishoot-wireless-flash-trigger-pt-04-cn-review/ )You do have to disable the standby function on your flash to avoid misfiring.
From memory, I think some Nikon or Canon triggers will work a bit with Pentax, but some require a minor mod to work properly with Pentax...
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Problem with two flash guns at 11/10/2011 - 16:02
Love my DA*16-50 and no way am I selling it
(If anything happened to it, I'd buy another for sure)
Have used a fair diversion of lenses, but this definitely has a certain "something". I listened to the reviews for too long, bought a 2nd hand one and was stunned at what I was missing. YMMV.
Matt
(If anything happened to it, I'd buy another for sure)
Have used a fair diversion of lenses, but this definitely has a certain "something". I listened to the reviews for too long, bought a 2nd hand one and was stunned at what I was missing. YMMV.
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Bad review for DA* 16-50mm at 10/10/2011 - 12:22
Everything else if P-TTL only (but, of course can use TTL-only flashguns in "A" and "M" mode - which can still be incredibly useful, like the Metz 50MZ5 I have... for sale)
Matt