The AF360 and AF540 have two types of slave flash. Slave 1 and Slave 2.

One is a "dumb" slave, the other is the intelligent wireless mode. (Can't remember which off hand!). It's in the manual

If you are slaving off the *ist-D, use the intelligent mode. This works even when "M" is set on the camera. You can use the custom function to stop the pop-up flash contributing to the light output if you need that.

If the flashes are in "dumb" mode, then there could still be a preflash (it's pretty tough to turn it off!), and then the slaves would dump their output on the preflash and not have enough for the main discharge (or none). In fact, that's still a problem - if your flashes dump so much output they cannot recharge in time! If you set the red-eye reduction mode on, then there will be a 1 second pause between the pre-flash and main flash which gives the flash a little more time to recycle charge.

Excuse the rush... it's late. I'll answer more tomorrow if you need more info
Matt

The one on the right will give you zoom linkage with the *ist-D (that's the Z in FTZ).

I do actually stand corrected - it was the AF400 FTZ that were available in the shop here. The AF400T I haven't seen many of.

As far as I know both can work with the *ist-D, but I think the AF400T was designed primarily for the medium format gear, and connects using a 4-pin connector rather than a hotshoe. However, you can get the cables for hot-shoe to 4-pin (I have a spare). There was also a bracket like the AF400T for 35mm - which I've modified for my *ist-D and AF540.

If I were you I'd aim for the AF400FTZ - it'll be a fine match

Matt

JC,
It's no problem being a newbie
Forget the flash you mentioned. Period.

Get a dedicated Pentax flash gun and you'll have more functions available. As we hinted, getting a second hand unit is definitely a cost effective way - the local Jessops store here has several Pentax AF400 flash for around £35.

TTL is Through-The-Lens flash metering. It will get you much better exposure compared to the flash gun just dumping light, or the flashgun using a "magic eye" (probably like the one you mentioned).

P-TTL is the Preflash-TTL metering. This gives even better results by firing a small pre-flash before the actual. Your pop-up flash in the *ist-D does this.

The newer flash guns use a digital method of communication - the flashguns have four pins on the bottom (plus the one on the side). The older flashguns have three pins and use an analogue communication. As I said, the *ist-D will handle them all

Take a look at the manual and they list all the Pentax flash guns and their features for the *ist-D. The AF360 and AF540 are probably out of your price range, but any of the older flash guns will work well on the *ist-D and there are plenty of near mint or excellent condition units available for next to nothing.

If you have to go for a non-Pentax gun, then do make sure it is specifically for Pentax. Anything else will generally be a step backwards, and you'll only kick yourself later for trying to save a little bit of money

As to measuring - it's the trigger voltage. Measure between the centre pin and the edge connection.

The *ist-D will also fire studio flashes through the side "PC" connector.

Hope that helps!!

Matt

Regarding compatibility:

The *ist-D and *ist-DS will work with all Pentax dedicated flashes - analogue and digital. So... take your pick

The *ist-DL and newer removed support for older analogue flash guns. TTL is not supported, only P-TTL as provided by the AF360 and AF540. However, I suspect you can use a flashgun on the "A" or "M" settings (that's on the flashgun, not the camera), giving non-TTL flash.

To be honest, it's generally not worth going for cheap-and-cheerful units. You're better off finding a second hand Pentax unit - it'll give you no worse than the unit you describe, and depending on the model of your camera it may give you more If you can't find a Pentax, then go for a second hand newer Vivitar, Sunpack, Cobra etc - they are ok, but as Peter says, the Pentax guns are better Metz are worth checking out, but are expensive too!

Matt

Insanely wide

Nope. It'll be waaaay too slow. Those shots are generally done in a dark room, with the shutter open, and triggering the flash by sound or light. Either that or getting lucky with the shutter release
Matt

There are some "generic" housings that will allow a few metres depth. I think they're made by "Aquapac". ( http://www.aquapac.net/ )If you want real diving quality housings though, I don't believe there was a housing made for the *ist-D. As you say, a custom housing may be the way.

Have you tried Google?

Matt

The Ansmann Energy 8.
One key feature is that it charges the batteries individually, not in pairs. It automatically discharges too, and NiMHs that I've had serious problems with work wonderfully now
Matt

Hi!
I don't see a problem in using them. They have a 1.5V output - which is the same as regular Alkaline. Assuming they are exactly AA size (not sure what the AA-M designation is, and haven't checked the dimensions), they should be just fine.

The LiIon were potentially a problem with their 3.7V output (But the Uniross ones overcome it with a three pin system, as I mentioned.)
The Uniross CR-V3 rechargeables have been working fine - I presume they have a lower self-discharge rate than NiMH. However, since using a "proper" charger my NiMHs have been behaving themselves

Matt

I have both the SMC-F 50/1.4 and the SMC-F 50/1.7

The 1.7 is super sharp and flat. But the 1.4 is just sublime for portraits

Used tnem on *ist-D and *ist-DS

Matt