Pete,
First of all - there are other threads dealing with the firmware. So, I'm going to lock this and migrate it to another thread later
You're better off appending to one of the existing threads (it makes it sooo hard for the regulars to keep up if there are repeat threads )

But to answer your question -
* Copy the file FWDC162B.BIN to the root of an SD card
* Shove the card in the camera
* Make sure you have fully charged batteries
* Power on the camera while holding the MENU button.
* It'll ask you if you want to upgrade
* Never, ever, turn off the camera while it's doing it (takes a minute or two)
* When done, it'll flash the red LED and say it's complete - you can then turn off the camera.

Now delete the file off the SD card (or format it).

BTW, it's all explained in the "README.TXT" file that comes with the BIN file

Easy

Matt

I agree with you Peter. I have no intention of forcing a switch every month. Yes, I've tried pretty well all of them, and bought the main players (RSP - Lightroom will be a free upgrade, Photoshop CS2, C1, SPDS3).

However, as you know, I've been using C1 for a looong time. I still have my licenses installed, and am still looking forward to C1v4 being released (whenever). I had been using Magne Neilsen's excellent colour profiles with C1 - I'd been using the Nikon D100 profile (which uses the same CCD, but has slightly different colour response due to the difference in electronics and processing).

The image quality is excellent out of C1.... and in fact I was very, very nearly going to buy the Pro version (at £300) because it was (a) faster, (b) had more features than the LE version. Then I gave Silkypix a serious look as version 3 came out (I didn't take to v2).

SP-DS3 gave me the features I was missing in C1Pro (rotate and upsizing being two main ones). In addition it gave me better control over colour rendition, and at least the same image quality (and better in most cases, IMO). And it was much, much cheaper than C1Pro

Of course, software development being what it is, there will always be progress in both workflow and quality (which is one good reasons to keep the RAW files!).

If you're happy with C1 - fine
If you've not got C1, I'd say go with SP-DS3.

Getting back on thread... JPG processing is pretty excellent and intuitive in SPDS3 and may well open up a new range of possibilities for others. Not 100% sure about how it deals with JPGs - AFAIK it provides an internal "bridge" to internally deal with JPGs as if they were RAW. The EXIF includes details about the WB setting, so it can use that information in providing WB correction (but do note that you can't do as extreme adjustments because you don't have equal information in all channels).

Matt

Prieni,
That is some shot! Wow!

I too have found the *ist-D give excellent results, especially with Silkypix set to "Pure Detail" and a touch of noise reduction. However, the K10D easily outperforms my *ist-D on resolution, and when it comes to dynamic range there is no match! (The K10D gives wonderful histograms that are a cinch to tweak in PS) The K10D + SMC-F 100mm/f2.8 is astonishing! (Might upload another watermarked pic to PBase to show what I mean )

EDIT: Couple more K10D full res shots here:
http://www.pbase.com/mattmatic/image/73451147 and
http://www.pbase.com/mattmatic/image/73451148
Enjoy

Matt

Haven't seen one... yet. Only other option would be to cut the existing cable (leaving enough at the MZ-S connector end), mount a 2.5mm stereo plug on the controller end, and a 2.5mm stereo socket on the MZ-S connector end. That way you'd be making your own adaptor
Matt

Indeed it does There's a little slider that locks it.

The genuine CS-205 does... I'm not sure about the "compatibles" though.
Matt

Just to say I've bought rather a bit from PicStop over the years... always excellent

They currently have the Sandisk Extreme III 2Gb for £37.90 - a snip
(That's a 133x card :shock
The 1Gb costs a measly £19.90 - cheaper than film
Matt

You'll need to read the PDF first:
http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/tutorials/PutAFineEdgeOnYourSharpeningSkills...

That explains the concept of Capture, Creative, and Output sharpening
Matt

LOL @ George

Forgot to add that a little touch of noise reduction helps too in SP-DS3 - somewhere around 4 to 6 is usually enough along with the "Natural Fine" taste. And, like George, generally I need very, very little Capture sharpening with the K10D.

The *ist-D gave better results with the "Pure Detail" algorithm.

And I think that SP-DS3's sharpening algorithms are a little more complex than just a USM

Matt

Liam,
A radius of 5 in USM getting more like a LCE - Local Contrast Enhancement, and isn't really sharpening. Maybe that's why you can't get what you want!

Generally I find that a little sharpening in SP-DS3 is just fine - the present "Natural Fine" seems pretty close on most K10D images so far. However, I'll often pull it into Photoshop and do this: (applicable to Gimp too)

* Duplicate the layer
* USM: Radius 50, Amount 50%, Threshold 10
* Change blend mode to Luminosity

Some call this the "kick layer" - it performs a local contrast mask and can really give some punch. You may need to adjust the overal opacity of the layer or use a layer mask. But it's a great start

Like many others I'll split my sharpening into three phases: Capture, Creative, Output. If you want a really big read check out here:
http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/learning.htm
(There's a tutorial about putting a fine edge on your sharpening skills at the bottom that's worth reading)
Also here: http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/tutorials-pdf.htm

Matt

Luscious