You see Pete, if you just feel "Oh no one's replied to my thread, I think I'll create another thread", then when someone replies to your previous post everything gets disjointed and disconnected. It also makes it extremely difficult keeping up with the traffic as a moderator as you're multiplying the posts.

Most of the regulars here use the "List Posts Since Last Visit" link to check what's new and reply directly. So you don't need to use CAPITALS to make yourself heard, and you don't need to repeat threads for any reason. We'll see that you've updated the original one (besides it moves to the top of the thread list anyway).

In future, all you have to do is post a "Help, I'm still having problems" at the end of the original thread

I hate having to retype complex posts.... and colour management isn't a simple thing. Some past posts include: https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2533 , https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2619 , https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1503 , https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2567

Also, you should be aware that for photographic editing the ambient light should be very, very low. Surprisingly so in fact Then WiziWYG the monitor in the same light and try again.

You can also try this route:
* Look here: http://www.photobox.co.uk/static/colour.html
* Phone/email Photobox and ask for the test print
* Check that after WiziWYG-ing it looks more or less like the print
* If you still have printer problems - it's your printer settings.

Matt


Moderator note:
Thread locked - continue on the original: https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=22395

Pete,
Please, please, please don't start a new thread on the same basic topic as one that's already running!!!
(This is the third thread you have posted this question in )

I replied to your previous question here:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=22329#22329

Matt

Rodger,
This is the same print as shipped by Photobox (link above)
Matt

Just checked out the iP4300 driver:

On the printer properties page:
* Color/Intensity - set to "MANUAL".
* Click the "Set" button next to that
- Choose "ICM (Windows Image Color Management"

* Make sure you choose the correct "Media Type" - because the printer driver chooses the ICM color profile based on your selection.

That should get you 90% there (assuming you are using original Canon ink cartridges - you'll be very fortunate to get a colour match using third party cheap inks).

Matt

Colour management isn't a simple thing. Some past posts include: https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2533 , https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2619 , https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1503 , https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2567

Also, you should be aware that for photographic editing the ambient light should be very, very low. Surprisingly so in fact Then WiziWYG the monitor in the same light and try again.

You can also try this route:
* Look here: http://www.photobox.co.uk/static/colour.html
* Phone/email Photobox and ask for the test print
* Check that after WiziWYG-ing it looks more or less like the print
* If you still have printer problems - it's your printer settings.

Matt


Moderator note:
Associated, cross-threaded post here: https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3727
Please post all replies on this subject to this thread

Only unless you never want to:
a) email an image
b) post online
c) get printed onto real photopaper


If you've been getting massive differences between screen and print then I would expect your calibrated screen to look "off" when comparing against what you are used to!!

You should find that the printer will be set to sRGB and will be more or less correct if you are using their paper and inks. There are usually options within the printer driver for "optimising" your image - don't select these. There should also be an option that says "sRGB" or "ICC/ICM" - use that and print through Photoshop/Elements and you should be more or less ok.

Printing from other applications can be a bit of a game (e.g. IE) because 99% of applications under Windows are not colour managed!!

Matt

Pete,
Looks like you've downloaded the MAC version of WiziWYG
If you can't locate it, drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send it over...

It works like this:
* Install WiziWYG
* Run it
* Select "Monitor" and click Next
* Select "Visual" and click Next
* Follow the instructions on setting brightness and contrast (with an LCD you could just leave as-is)
* Now the tricky bit: squint hard at the Red, Green and Blue squares. You need to adjust the sliders until the inside square looks the same shade as the outside square (squint hard until you can't see the lines). It's easier to select the slider and use the arrow keys.
* When done, click Next
* Select the monitor - choose "Generic LCD color" and click Next
* Choose the white point and gamma - start with "D65" and "2.2 gamma" click Next
* Now name the profile (use the date in the filename). Also CHECK the box that says "Check here if you want this to be your default system profile", THEN click "Create Profile"

Should be it

Even if you paid £3500 for an Eizo you'd still need to calibrate it

Matt

Since ME, 98 and 95 are now defunct and unsupported by Microsoft you'll find that most software suppliers will only specify Windows 2000/XP even if the software does actually work on the older versions.

That said, you're still better getting a card reader (one that works with ME!), and load from that.

Matt

Pete,
Bear in mind that continuous lighting systems get very hot They do offer the advantage that you can see what you're going to get.

The other thing I neglected to say was that decent studio lights (like the D-Lite2 kit) have modelling lamps which give a proportional continuous lighting - so you can get an idea of the shadows etc. The flash though, when it's triggered, is stilll substantially brighter.

P.S. It was "Digital SLR Photography" that had the article. ( www.digitalslrphoto.com ) Also has a small review of the DLite-2 kit

P.P.S. Crossed in the post with George Quite agree with him Did I say I like the DLite-2 kit?? (Probably my next big purchase... unless the new star lenses come sooner )

Matt

Pete,
I think you're misunderstanding something here...

There are two types of studio lighting:

1) Flash. These are just great hunking mains powered flash guns. e.g. Elinchrom D-Lite 2

2) Continuous Lighting. A bit like a very stable and controllable light bulb. e.g. Elinchrom Minilite

With either system you then modify the light using various means - soft-box, diffuser, umbrella, snoot, barn doors, honeycombs etc. These all allow you to get a different "feel" and control to the light (whether you want hard, soft etc).

You don't use a puny little battery powered flash gun when you've got a decent studio lighting setup

On the other hand, if you don't have space for full studio lighting (as in my case alas), you can achieve a studio "look" by using one or two decent electronic flashguns equipped with various light modifiers. I use two Pentax guns (AF360 + AF540) in wireless mode, mounting them onto tripods - with and without an umbrella.


Whichever approach you take - including using available or natural light - you can (and should at least learn to use) reflectors. They allow you to bounce back some of the light (whereever the light came from) and soften out shadows etc.

If you read the links I posted earlier that should give you some idea.... also the February issue of "Digital SLR User" (I think) has a nice article on portrait lighting.

Matt