To answer George's question...

It depends on exactly where the problem is.

If it really is a screen issue, then go and buy an *ist-D/Ds screen!! They're not expensive

Alas, I haven't had the time to sit down and quantify this. It's particularly difficult for me as I don't have any M or even A lenses (have F and FA though). If I can recreate the issue with F and FA, then if I can find a couple of hours I'll do some testing.

I would start by setting up some controlled lighting, let's say at three or four different Ev's. I'd do it with the "A" setting, and with three manual apertures. I'd probably also use the Expodisc to ascertain whether it's down to localised lighting, or light levels in general (the Expodisc creates a very uniform light level).

If it's down to a non-linearity in the light level measurement - this can be fixed in firmware. If the screen actually has anything to do with it, then fixing in firmware could be tricky (as you'd have two scenarios - one with the shipped K10D screen and one with an *ist-D screen).

If it really is down to the screen, then I suppose it's unlikely you'll ever hear about it. But, as I said, replacement screens for the older *ist-D and *ist-Ds are easily obtained and don't cost the earth.


In the past, firmware upgrades have often improved exposure issues even though such has not been mentioned on the firmware release. I have already found some situations where the exposure wasn't as good as I'd hoped on the K10D - and resorted to the Expodisc as an incident meter which gave spot-on readings.

I suppose we often underestimate the difficulties in getting a "right" exposure automatically and have largely lost the art of guaging light levels and using our head (e.g. I used to be able to reckon the light levels to within a stop when I used slide film... I've largely lost that knack :roll

Matt

Brian,
I bought some Jettec cartridges from Picstop for my aging Epson Photo 870 - they seem absolutely fine
Colour is good, and quality appears as good as the Epsons. Perfect for one offs etc.
Matt

I think Ben meant "Adobe instead of sRGB". AdobeRGB has a much wide gamut than sRGB.

But then it doesn't matter for RAW anyway - 'cause it's set in the RAW software later.
Matt

Tim,
You're absolutely right
In-camera sharpening applies to JPG and the JPG thumbnail that's included in the RAW file.

RAW file demosaicing (see Wikipedia) is extremely easy to describe but very difficult to do in practice. There are many methods of actually doing this process, and the camera has to take a middle ground as it has limited processing resources.

Capture One is pretty excellent in demosaicing, Silkypix has much more control (and sharpness like you wouldn't believe from a 6Mp, and mind numbingly sharp from the K10D :shock. Adobe Camera Raw is pretty good too - but I've seen it produce more artifacts than the others, especially in high ISO images.

As John says, it depends to a large degree on the subject. If you have top-notch lenses, and good photographic methods then you'll benefit from sharpening on the PC - and again, it depends on the subject matter as well as how much (and what method) to use.

A good place to start is www.thelightsrightstudio.com - check out the sharpening tutorials (There's alos a thread I started on the subject!)

Matt

Must do my "how to" sometime... had zero problems with softness (and I'm a demanding chap )
Matt

BTW, Silkypix includes "Geometric Noise" reduction which cleans up any VPN that might be lurking. Pretty excellent NR in general too... once you get the hang of it
Matt

It depends on what you use to get rid of the noise...

If you use Silkypix - get rid of the noise in there, you'll get a better result.
If you're using NeatImage with a predefinied profile, then you must do the noise first (as changing levels will affect the profile).

If you're going to fix the noise yourself, I'd do whatever's easiest

Matt

The anti-shake should be turned off for long exposure tripod shots.
But, I reckon it'll be fine on a monopod or tripod with sensible shutter speeds.

I've used the K10D with a 1.7x and 320mm handheld at 1/50s and got a pin sharp image
(But then I have a steady hand anyway )

Matt

I wish ... a nice shiny 16-50/f2.8 wouldn't go amiss! LOL!
Matt

Why??

If you're looking for one, there's refurbished ones from SRS Microsystems - £249 (with lens +£70). That's still with a full 12 month warranty

A 2gig card is worth next to nothing. Sandisk Extreme III cards are £17.90 from www.picstop.co.uk

HTH!
Matt