All Forum Comments
Comment by MattMatic posted on Norton AV 360 at 28/07/2008 - 11:45
Quote:
When reviewing an image in playback mode, zoom in to say 6x, then use the front wheel to go backwards and forwards to review the next or last image at the same zoom level.
Absolutely When reviewing an image in playback mode, zoom in to say 6x, then use the front wheel to go backwards and forwards to review the next or last image at the same zoom level.
However, the K10D and K20D are the only models that have a front wheel
(The *ist-D did, but didn't have that feature)
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on k200D image review on cam at 24/07/2008 - 12:22
Either print at a 3:2 ratio (9x6, 18x12 etc) or crop.
If that's no good, then you could add a border, bringing up to the 4:3 ratio of 8x6, and keeping the 3:2 ratio image in the centre.
Not much else to do really!
Matt
If that's no good, then you could add a border, bringing up to the 4:3 ratio of 8x6, and keeping the 3:2 ratio image in the centre.
Not much else to do really!
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on Help Resizing Problem! at 23/07/2008 - 21:47
Sorry Peter - you can get halos even if you switch to Lab mode
Switching the layer blend mode to "Luminosity" will accomplish nearly exactly the same thing as a switch to Lab mode... without the hassle and possible degradation.
Halos arise because of increasing the contrast between the edges. It entirely depends on the subject as to how visible they will be.
The TLR action plug in uses some interesting methods for selecting just the edges and reducing halo effects.
It's a big subject...
Matt
Switching the layer blend mode to "Luminosity" will accomplish nearly exactly the same thing as a switch to Lab mode... without the hassle and possible degradation.
Halos arise because of increasing the contrast between the edges. It entirely depends on the subject as to how visible they will be.
The TLR action plug in uses some interesting methods for selecting just the edges and reducing halo effects.
It's a big subject...
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on A sharpening tip at 23/07/2008 - 17:44
Soft proofing is a way to use the monitor to visualise how the print will come out on the target device
(Hence the "soft" - it's not a "hard" print out)
There will often be a shift in some areas when moving to another colour space. That's what the intent is all about - how you squeeze a quart into a pint-pot (so to speak). Try it with "Perceptual" and "Relative Colormetric" - they'll be slightly different.
When soft proofing you will read about a "Gamut Warning" - this shows where the colours will be clipped (as opposed to the luminance levels that you're used to seeing in Photoshop).
My suggestion - get the hang of everything in sRGB, and when you are completely comfortable, then switch to AdobeRGB. Give it a few weeks
Matt
(Hence the "soft" - it's not a "hard" print out)
There will often be a shift in some areas when moving to another colour space. That's what the intent is all about - how you squeeze a quart into a pint-pot (so to speak). Try it with "Perceptual" and "Relative Colormetric" - they'll be slightly different.
When soft proofing you will read about a "Gamut Warning" - this shows where the colours will be clipped (as opposed to the luminance levels that you're used to seeing in Photoshop).
My suggestion - get the hang of everything in sRGB, and when you are completely comfortable, then switch to AdobeRGB. Give it a few weeks
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on ICC = it's coming clearer! at 23/07/2008 - 17:41
Thanks for the hint Don
When I've a chunk of spare cash, and after I've upgraded to the K20D and the DA* lenses then I'll have a look
But that's a useful tip all the same - thanks!
Matt
When I've a chunk of spare cash, and after I've upgraded to the K20D and the DA* lenses then I'll have a look
But that's a useful tip all the same - thanks!
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on ICC = it's coming clearer! at 23/07/2008 - 13:17
EDIT: Just Google'd and it looks like ColorSync can do the profile conversion for you
Color_Mgmt_inTiger.pdf
See page 11:
Anyone got a Mac Book Pro + CS2 going cheap??
Matt
Color_Mgmt_inTiger.pdf
See page 11:
Quote:
You can also convert an image for an output device by selecting the Output menu and the appropriate printer profile. When converting to an output color space, you can choose a rendering intent for the color space conversion using the Intent pop-up menu. Click Apply to see a soft proof of how the image will appear after conversion. Choose the rendering intent that produces your preferred color appearance based on
the image and the profiles being used. Choose Save As from the File menu to apply the conversion and save the new file to your hard drive, ready for output to that particular output device.
So looks like you Mac users are all sorted You can also convert an image for an output device by selecting the Output menu and the appropriate printer profile. When converting to an output color space, you can choose a rendering intent for the color space conversion using the Intent pop-up menu. Click Apply to see a soft proof of how the image will appear after conversion. Choose the rendering intent that produces your preferred color appearance based on
the image and the profiles being used. Choose Save As from the File menu to apply the conversion and save the new file to your hard drive, ready for output to that particular output device.
Anyone got a Mac Book Pro + CS2 going cheap??
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on ICC = it's coming clearer! at 23/07/2008 - 09:06
Well, you've definitely got the right idea as to workflow. sRGB will do you just fine (though AdobeRGB will be better later once you've sussed everything out - PSE can do AdobeRGB )
There are two options:
1) The app just reassigns the profile, leaving the colour "numbers" the same. You'll get waaaay off colours with this approach.
2) The app does a profile conversion (ie with an "intent") and recalculates all the colours numbers as well as tagging the image with the new profile.
To take a money analogy, option 1 is like just changing the sign from £ to $ - you'll get a result that says it's Dollars but you won't have the right figure! Option 2 does the actual currency conversion as well as the sign change.
Unfortunately I don't have a Mac - so I can't immediately tell you what you'll get back from the print!
Hope that helps!!
Matt
Quote:
I would simply do a "save as" with the selected colour profile being my local lab's
The result depends entirely on what this app does I would simply do a "save as" with the selected colour profile being my local lab's
There are two options:
1) The app just reassigns the profile, leaving the colour "numbers" the same. You'll get waaaay off colours with this approach.
2) The app does a profile conversion (ie with an "intent") and recalculates all the colours numbers as well as tagging the image with the new profile.
To take a money analogy, option 1 is like just changing the sign from £ to $ - you'll get a result that says it's Dollars but you won't have the right figure! Option 2 does the actual currency conversion as well as the sign change.
Unfortunately I don't have a Mac - so I can't immediately tell you what you'll get back from the print!
Hope that helps!!
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on ICC = it's coming clearer! at 23/07/2008 - 09:01
Here's a few more in lieu of the Photoshop web-session
* Easiest: duplicate on new layer, sharpen hard, change blend to "Luminosity", and then paint on the layer mask to hide/show masking. You can also adjust overall sharpening with the layer opacity (as mentioned by beakynet)
* For portrait sharpening (e.g. eyes), do the above but sharpen a bit harder than normal. Fill the layer mask with black to hide it all. Now pick a 50% opacity white soft brush and gradually paint white on the mask to show the sharpening (around eyelashes etc)
* To reduce halos - use the "Blend If" facility of Photoshop (sorry - not on Elements). Hold the ALT key down and drag the white point for "this layer" to the left - this will reduce the white halos. Do the same for the black too.
There's a few more ways to stop halos etc.
For a good "one stop" set of actions try the The Lights Right Studio sharpening set - one of the best there is
Matt
* Easiest: duplicate on new layer, sharpen hard, change blend to "Luminosity", and then paint on the layer mask to hide/show masking. You can also adjust overall sharpening with the layer opacity (as mentioned by beakynet)
* For portrait sharpening (e.g. eyes), do the above but sharpen a bit harder than normal. Fill the layer mask with black to hide it all. Now pick a 50% opacity white soft brush and gradually paint white on the mask to show the sharpening (around eyelashes etc)
* To reduce halos - use the "Blend If" facility of Photoshop (sorry - not on Elements). Hold the ALT key down and drag the white point for "this layer" to the left - this will reduce the white halos. Do the same for the black too.
There's a few more ways to stop halos etc.
For a good "one stop" set of actions try the The Lights Right Studio sharpening set - one of the best there is
Matt
Comment by MattMatic posted on A sharpening tip at 22/07/2008 - 15:45
Comment by MattMatic posted on K200D how good is the battery life in reality? at 21/07/2008 - 15:26
(No affiliation, but I've seen far too many PCs running slow and horrible with Norton or McAfee, and switching to Eset made a huuuuuge difference in speed. And the more licenses you buy, the cheaper they get )
Matt