John - glad that's helped. Although be aware that AVG still misses some "in the wild viruses"... not as many as Norton, but still some. Eset on the other hand have a 100% hit rate - even with 6 month old pattern files they still get most viruses

Unpicking exploits is a right pain Wish these people had something better to do
Matt

Welcome to the forum

The Pentax mini slave flash will only slave to a single flash. I'm not sure about the Jessops gun you have - but if it's P-TTL it won't work... at least not in P-TTL.

If you main gun has "A" or "M" mode then these modes will trigger the remote slave. You are best putting the camera in "M" mode, put the Jessops flash in "M" mode (if possible) and adjust appropriately.

There's some information on how to do this in my sticky thread on the subject

Hope that helps!
Matt

You'll hear the noise on longer exposures
A very soft "humming" kind of noise as the CCD is "jiggled" around
Matt

Absolutely. Bit rushed as I'm trying to multitask.. something I'm not too hot at

I did read it carefully I wasn't trying to imply anything about your methods, ideas, or experience - sorry if it came across like that!
My issue was with the vibrating platform and the possible verifiable result that only SR on and stabilised was sharp

It'll be interesting to see if you can repeat the results of the experiment... as I'm sure you will

...back to work now...
Matt

Points taken Chris, but the shots I mention were definitely not down to annoying one-offs. I've been taking shots for long enough to recognise and know what the limits are.

Ok then, I have proof (enough for me anyhoo)

Setup:
* Camera solidly on the desk on a grip.
* Use custom function to disable AF on half press
* "M" mode, ISO1000, 1/125s, f/8, 90mm focused about 20m away.
* Gently and repeatedly tap the hotshoe with thumb (about 2Hz if you're being picky). Not too hard to move the camera - more to trick the SR.

1) SR off - take a shot.
2) SR on - half press, keep tapping, and then take shot
3) SR on - keep tapping and press shutter down

Results - every time:
1) Sharp.
2) Sharp.
3) Blurred.

It definitely didn't want a vibrating platform Just needs a little percussive noise to upset the SR sensors.

I rest my case
Matt

PS. The suggestions, apparently, have gotten to Pentax. Hopefully they'll see some sense

Bump
K10D still for sale
Matt

Chris - disagree
I'm not trying to discern the difference between SR and no SR on a solid foundation

The problem I had was with shutter speed and conditions that I would not have expected any blur-induced shake without SR. Yet there was clearly shake demonstrated - and I was suspecting it was down to the SR trying to compensate for shake that wasn't there (because it wasn't "locked"). You see, SR was enabled, but hadn't stabilised.

My experiment is trying to reproduce this in a controlled way.

If I use a controlled level of shake - how can I discern what SR is trying to do when it hasn't had time to stabilise? I'm trying to work out which of the following applies (both with SR turned on):
1) The camera attempts to do SR even if it has insufficient data.
2) The camera behaves as if SR is disabled if it has insufficient data.

From what I've seen it appears to be (1) - which is why I'm leaving SR off - and especially so because I focus only with the rear AF button. Using the shutter release button for focus side-steps the issue because by the time the camera has focused it's already got enough data to perform SR.

Does that explain it better?
Matt

Tel,
It's because I have "disconnected" the focus from the shutter button. I only focus with the rear AF button. This is probably why I can push the button down so quickly and catch the SR out
(Sorry I forgot to mention that!! It's an option in the custom menu.)
Matt

Ok, back on thread...

Actually the test for this is NOT to use a vibrating plate, but to use a solid platform. I held the K20D+grip firmly down onto a table. I used 90mm and a slowish shutter speed.

1. SR enabled, hold button for a while and then fully press.
2. SR enabled, let the camera idle for a while then carefully push the button all the way.
3. SR disabled, release the shutter.

I've not done extensive tests, but on my initial test it appears that (2) was less clear - evidence that the SR was trying to kick in even though it had insufficient information. There was no discernible difference between (1) and (3) in this test - which is what you'd expect.

However, in another test (2) wasn't any different from (1). So, although the evidence seems to suggest that SR is trying to work, there may be other factors involved. Perhaps how long the camera is idling, what the camera's doing at the time (like showing a preview), what the shutter speed is, etc.

I'll try some more tests when I get a chance... but for now, at least, I have SR disabled unless I specifically need it. And when I use SR I'm making absolutely sure that the "hand" icon is visible in the viewfinder before releasing the shutter

Matt

Liam,
Perhaps Kris is talking about exchanging the colour cartridges for B&W specific ones For example, they allow you to use 6 shades of black and grey. Gives a truly excellent B&W print with no metamerism.
Only big trouble is the amount of wasted ink when you swap cartridges The B&W ink players offer washing-out kits, but TBH it's probably better using two printers if you're that serious about B&W.

What is also worth noting is that there are B&W digital enlargers available. I remember one of the London/Croydon Universities getting a set of them. They allow you to digitally print direct to traditional B&W paper. Now that sounds like the best approach to me... wonder if there's a lab that does this???

Matt