It's probable the front set of elements is held in by a screw or three.
The FA80-320 and FA28-70 worked in a similar way.
http://www.photon.me.uk/pu/pentax_fa80_320/index.html

Looking at the element structure there should be a group of three elements in that front part.
Hopefully there will be a way to align the focus ring (maybe the loose screw fits on one side of it?)

Could be tricky - and as usual, obvious once worked out!
Just hope you don't damage it

Matt

Two for me
Matt

No, sorry!
I use the QPcard to produce individual profiles. It's very easy

That isn't the right question!

The output colour space (sRGB, ARGB, ProPhoto etc) has nothing to do with camera profiles.
The transformation is from RAW, thru the profile (normally Adobe's own), then effectively thru another transformation into the required output colour space.

But, the difference is excellent. Reds and greens are much more natural. And if you need to match cameras it's the only way (eg Canon 5Dii and Pentax K5iis). If you need more than one or two profilesI'd get the QPcard - more expensive but wouldn't be without mine! Have profiles in cloudy conditions for various Pentax bodies.

Hope that helps!
Matt

My understanding is that the compacts apply 'fill lighting' after capture (and before JPG save).

Can't remember off-hand which model of Pentax dSLR provided the same feature (shadow correction + highlight correction). Think it was the K7

As far as 'real' DR goes, dxomark.com has measured values for most cameras.
e.g. K20D = 11.1 Evs; K3 = 13.4 Evs; MX-1 = 11.3 Evs

Checking out the Panasonics they seem to have about the same as the K20D (i.e. around 11 Evs)

You'll probably find with a bit of Lightroom control you'll get good results from a single RAW shot. Certainly on the K5 (which has a massive 14.1 Evs DR) I find I haven't used ND grad filters or multiple shots in a looong time!

Matt

Agree about differing requirements.

However, the 'flippy' screen has got me some lovely shots and angles that are just downright impossible on anything else.
Bright light can be challenging at times, but never enough to stop me getting what I want! I usually wear an Australian-style hat in bright sun and make use of this as a screen shade (as well as keeping my head out of the sun!)

Have also equipped my MX-1 with an anti-glare screen protector which does make a big difference to irritating reflected light

Matt

There isn't a "best way".... just different

An old manual lens with aperture ring on a reversing adapter can be astonishingly good (50mm or 28mm). BUT the exposed element of the lens has to be incredibly close to the subject.

Extension tubes are helpful for making a good lens 'short-sighted'. For example, it's helpful to get a touch closer with the DA*50-135. Results are great, and not limited to macro (just getting a bit closer).

Extension tubes with a reversed lens gets silly... but fun to try.

Dedicated macro lenses are helpful for close detail, but taken further away (e.g. 180mm macro lens will get detail from further away).

Closest and cheapest option is a K-mount reversing ring, and a good prime (doesn't have to be Pentax )

Next option is extension tubes, but watch out for the various issues with stop-down-metering and electronic control pins on DA*/DA series lenses (search the forum here).

And there is always the Raynox type clip-on adapters that can give pleasant results. The cheaper devices tend to "bloom" at wide apertures and can have significant distortions. But they're easy to fit in the field.

Hope that helps!
Matt

From my experience, it's the MX-1 lens that makes it shine.

The Q is tinier, feels extremely nice, and the Q7 sensor is probably the same as the MX-1's (i.e. bigger than the Q or Q10).

The Q02 5-15mm lens just doesn't cut it compared to the MX-1. The Q01 8.5mm prime handles well, but isn't as versatile.

There are times when the MX-1 would be nicer if it was 24mm, rather than 28mm. But at f/1.8, with a delicious bokeh, I feel it outperforms the Q in almost every way as a general walkabout.

Yes, there's no flash socket, and there isn't any wireless triggering (you'll need a flash cube that can ignore the preflash to work at all). But I've found I use the K5iis for flash/studio & low-light work, and the MX-1 for fun and family.

It's interesting to use the "Compare" feature of DPreview



Matt

Thanks Carl - hope you have it languishing somewhere!
Matt

I am looking for a sad, neglected FA80-320 that has a good 'back end'.
So, a lens with fungus, or smashed elements, inability to focus, dodgy aperture blades - anything.

My copy has been in pieces too long as the plastic posts that take the rear mount screws have fallen apart (fairly common alas). It's about time I fixed it

Maybe there's one lying in a drawer somewhere?

Thank you!
Matt

Interesting...
How do you adjust the magnification? Or is it a choice of two magnifications?

I have the Pentax magnifying one, but that's been snaffled by my son. With specs I found the edges of the LCD readout were difficult to see, so something with adjustable magnification would be more useful

Thanks!
Matt