Nice practical examples

It is interesting that the flash in P-TTL mode is automatic even if the camera exposure mode is M. It is a nice way of controlling things.


There is another, automatic way

The exposure compensations are cumulative...

So, set the overall Ev to -1 and set the camera's Flash Ev to +1, with the flash in HSS mode. IIRC the compensation on the flash itself is added to the camera's Flash Ev compensation (which is useful, but irritating that it doesn't get remembered!)

That way, the camera will expose the ambient to one stop under, and the flash will be 'right'.

Additionally, the camera's flash exposure mode gives additional settings. Particularly in dim conditions you should switch to Slow-speed Sync (lightning bolt and "Slow"). That way the ambient exposure should be the same as without flash, and the flash will add some 'pop'. You may want to restrict or control the ISO too.

If the subject is moving quickly, and you've opted for really slow shutter speeds for ambient, then use the "Trailing Curtain Sync" instead of "Slow".

In the normal "Flash On" mode (just the lightning bolt) the camera's exposure will ramp up towards the exposure level for flash.



The Pentax dSLRs have a long standing bug/feature/irritation where the exposure meter will not flash to indicate overexposure when using flash not in HSS (i.e. if the ambient is say 1/500s, ISO400, f/2.8 and you turn the flashgun on it will show 1/180s, ISO400, f/2.8 - and the shot will be massively overexposed). Would have been nice if the exposure meter blinked to warn!

Sorry for the rambling... haven't had my second cup of coffee

Matt

Ten years ago I tried the DA16-45 on a Z1... it's not bad. Vignettes at wider focal lengths, but not by a huge amount.
At 20mm there's pretty much no vignetting.
At 16mm the hood is visible, and removing the hood gives a little more room - probably allowing down to around 18mm.

If you want to see, I can probably put them online...
Matt

That one needs to go on Photoshop Disasters blog
Looks like the size of the Q, and she has a veeeery long right hand middle finger
Matt

A QP-card 203. Essentially you just grab a DNG shot of the target in the required lighting, process it through their software and it will create a Lightroom profile for the camera.

Works a treat giving very accurate colours. The profiles from this are much more natural compared to the Adobe defaults (or even the ones embedded in the DNG).

I have 'cloudy' K5iis, K7, K10D, Q, MX-1 profiles (and a 5Dmk2 too) which all work well under general illuminants.

It cost a fair bit to import, though I think there are UK distributors now.
If you were passing Sussex and want to try it out before buying one, just PM me

Matt

Nice

Shame you're not nearer... a quick snap of my QP-card will generate a Lightroom profile
Or you could loan me the Zed
Matt

A bit too much white space for me

Most of the time I'd prefer a condensed thread view - without the frills of the user details, and Edit/Delete/etc.

I'm particularly interested how it looks on iPhone / iPad too...

Matt

Vic,

Assuming the camera is in landscape orientation...

Up arrow shifts the sensor up - effectively shifting the PoV higher. So if the verticals are tilting back (the normal situation when looking up at a building) then shifting up will correct the converging verticals.

Down arrow shifts the sensor down.

Left / Right move the sensor - you'll need these when in portrait orientation

The rear wheel rotates the sensor, correcting sloping horizons.


I had a quick go with the DA12-24 at 12mm and the shifting does give a reasonable amount of control. I'll give it a go next time I'm doing some architecture

Just watch out for vignetting - because you're moving the sensor closer to the edges of the image circle

Matt

Another 99% LR-er
I use Photoshop for anything 'serious' like major cloning or editing, but that's on the image output from LR.

But Lightroom is brilliant at getting the best quality image - especially when it includes lens profile corrections, CA removal, and camera calibration. Those things alone make a massive difference.

LR also allows output presets - which I use extensively - so I can quickly throw out 1600 or 1000 pixel screen sharpened versions, and full size AdobeRGB images.

I'm not a fan of the cataloging features, but use the colour tags and stars for quick culling of a photoshoot.

My kids use Pixelmator and Elements 8 on the Mac along with LR4.

The upgrade is £57, as is the student/teacher version.
Full version is around £100

Matt

Not yet... but certainly will!

Who needs tilt-n-shift lenses
Matt

I wouldn't mind just the Billingham Pentax case for the MX-1 I already have