The thumbnail for the adjustment layer is actually the layer mask.
As Hefty says, the adjustment layer affects all layers underneath (unless it has been grouped, in which case it only affects that grouped stack). But the layer mask can be used to target the adjustment to specific areas.

Black on the layer mask means "don't apply this adjustment"
White on the layer mask means "apply this adjustment"
Grey on the layer mask means "apply this adjustment a bit"

It's a nice way to target, say curves, to just the sky in an image. Add the adjustment layer and tweak to get the result you want - ignoring the mayhem in the rest of the image. Then paint black on the adjustment layer mask (either soft black brush or the gradient tool with foreground-to-transparent) to apply locally.

HTH!
Matt

James,
Apparently SRS still have a few left... (with 2yr warranty)
Matt

According to the AF240Z manual, the "P" mode should set the appropriate aperture on the camera (assuming the camera is in P or Green). This may not work on the dSLRs. It's quite a nice feature (for the bodies that work with it) as it eliminates some of the error.

The "A" mode on the flash will require you to manually set the aperture on the camera. Use "Av" or "M" mode on the camera (preferably M).

The "M" mode on the flash will, as you say, discharge a set amount of light. However, the advantage with digital is you can easily do a trial-and-error to get it right.


In all cases, make sure you FIX the ISO setting on the camera! These older flashes were built before auto-ISO existed (Using the "M" mode on the camera fixes the ISO too)

I'd suggest using fully manual on the camera. Set 1/180s on the body, f/8, ISO400 and work from there. You'll probably find the "A" setting on the flash the best for ad-hoc shots.


(You may also find my flash guide a useful addition.)

HTH!
Matt

Unlike the newer dSLRs, the *ist-DS can support regular (older) TTL flashguns as well as the newer P-TTL
So you can use pretty well any dedicated flash on the *ist-D and *ist-DS

Lenses - nearly any manual focus or autofocus lens.
Manual focus lenses that have an "A" setting on the aperture ring are easiest to use.
Only the SDM-only lenses (like the Pentax DA17-70 will not autofocus on the older cameras.

Other than that - same CS-205 remote control, same adapters, etc. A very fine camera indeed!

(And as for batteries, get some Eneloop or Hybrio batteries rather than regular NiMH cells. The Eneloop and Hybrios hold their charge much longer - up to 12 months)

HTH!
Matt

Very cool indeed
Matt

Looks like this one?
Matt

DA*50-135 and DA17-70.
No problems at all.
Matt

Disagree.

It gives you the best of both worlds without having to wait for the camera to AF as you shove the shutter fully down. It does take a little practice - but in the end you instinctively use thumb for focus, finger for shutter.

It's also an easier method when using AF-C mode too.

If you can't get on with the mode, that's one thing, but do at least try it for a week or two first
Matt

I'm odd as well

Matt

Picasa (now) allows viewing folders as they live on the HDD. You can sort them according to creation date, filename etc.

Personally I find it an excellent way of managing a large collection of images on either PC or Mac. It's also very good at creating "gift CDs" with multiple albums on and an auto-start slide show.

Picasa is also extremely easy to use for simple editing.

Matt