You can get the cheapest Huey or Pantone Spyder, or Gretag Macbeth Eye One - they all work with Argyll CMS + dispcalGUI.

The software is free to use and, IMHO, works far better than the software supplied with the hardware So, go for the cheap consumer version (or second hand) and use decent free software

EDIT: But the Huey is easier to install and faster than the Spyder for display calibration

Matt

Smeggy,
That's a fair idea... definitely worth experimenting with.
But watch out that the histogram on the camera (or PS) will vary with the white balance of the camera, and the camera has its own colour response curve too!

However a hardware calibration (say with a Huey) isn't that expensive (especially when compared with the cost of say the K20D or K7D!). The Argyll CMS software will take a whole pile of measurements at different intensities to create a profile for the monitor - it's not just a "balance R, G, and B at one level" (which is what you're doing).

Typically, displays need some serious calibration at the low and high ends - the curves produced by Argyll can be all over the place!

Just some thoughts
Matt

Spotify is helpful

Zero 7 have guest singers - so their sound is always slightly different. But very "chilled"... and I love the Rhodes/EP playing. Hmmmm

Will check out some of your list too
Matt

Big mix for me.
Current play list:
Imogen Heap; Zero 7; Pretz (Soundcastles); Bob James (also Fourplay); Swing Out Sister (yes they're still around and making good albums!); Tanita Tikaram; Mike Oldfield; Bonobo (aka Simon Green); David Benoit; The Rippingtons; Royksopp; Steve Winwood; Coldplay and a few more besides


Matt

That's only applicable if you are focussing with the flash (which isn't usual). It's more likely the AF will be working under tungsten or fluorescent lighting - with the flash for the main exposure.

Just a thought
Matt

That was funny! Certainly took me back...
(I used to hate repairing Sinclair machines! Especially the QL )
Matt

Just a note about HS mode... the output light power is reduced by 50%. However, the drain on the flash capacitor is still the same as in non HS mode

The reason is that in HS it has to rapid fire light to "pepper" the light as the curtains move. Not sure how many pulses occur in HS mode - maybe it's only two... one pulse for the upper half, and another pulse for the lower half. Hence the reduction in light.

Not sure about the FPS reduction... I'll try and find out what happens with the K20D sometime for you (wish I had a K7 to try ). It's probably down to the dedicated linkage between the body and flash.

Have you tried one of the old "dumb" PC style hotshoe adapters? Just make sure it's a plastic mount (so the dedicated pins of the AF540/360 aren't shorted out). You'd probably get "M" mode on the flash at 1/32 at full rate (because the camera won't know it actually a flash attached )

HTH!
Matt

Missed that!
Did see Austin Stevens chasing leopards the other evening... with a Samsung GX10/GX20 and what looked like a Pentax DA*60-250
Matt

Here:
http://www.swpp.co.uk/members/Bowers9272.htm

But www.freshimages.eu is currently down

Matt

Had an article (somewhere) that described the differences between flash & HDD storage. A well designed flash storage device will definitely last - even with massive write counts.

However, as with all things, there are plenty of ways of short-cutting the process to save costs (but reducing long-term reliability). For sure, not all flash-based-HDD replacements are created equal

But we're getting a bit OT now...
Matt