Actually I never removed the images from my server:
http://www.photon.me.uk/pu/thoughton/Tim_trainboy_Rebackground.jpg

and

http://www.photon.me.uk/pu/thoughton/Tim_trainboy_LAYERS_1k.psd

(Tim, if you want me to remove them, just ask!)
Matt

Looking at the levels and some samples in the image:
1) The pier paint work is pretty neutral - it doesn't have a blue tint
2) The RHS foreground grass area doesn't have a blue tint.

Unfortunately, without seeing the original scene, it's quite difficult to comment. Like film you can have odd effects when there is a large amount of UV around - this could contribute to a blue tint on the sky and sea.

Personally, I shoot RAW and generally leave WB to Auto (unless I'm in a controlled lighting situation where I'll grab a manual WB from something neutral as a reference). Then I'll sort things out in Silkypix Dev Pro

Certainly with the image you show a simple Auto-Levels goes a long way to correcting the image. Additionally, if you just adjust the Luminance of the image (I added a Curves adjustment layer with the blend mode set to Luminosity) and correct the underexposure then the image looks fine (much better than using Auto Levels)!

So, I think it's mainly a combination of underexposure and viewing conditions.

HTH!
Matt

Amin,
Unfortunately I don't have much time these days - preparing tutorials takes a fair while!
You could ask Tim if he'd email the PSD file - that'll help.

However, here are some basic suggestions and ideas:

* ALWAYS keep the original image - never modify it. Keep it on a layer so you can compare and come back to what was there originally.

* Duplicate the image and create a mask for the boy (I used a mixture of pen tool and brushes on the mask layer). What you want is the boy sitting on top of the background.

* For the door side, I just selected the 'good' wall and transformed it to cover over the door. Where there is a hard seam, add a layer mask and use a very feint gradient foreground-to-transparent (or a 50% brush) to blend in the seams.

* For the RHS of image, I copied the good wall area onto a new layer. Then reflected horizontally and positioned on the RHS. Obviously it will look like a bad cut-and-shut job at first. Just add a layer mask and blend in the new element using gradient tool and brushes.

* Sometimes (as in the case of the RHS), the colour cast is different, so I grouped a curves layer (you could use any adjustment layer) with the added element and tweaked the colour. Again, use the gradient tool (this time on the layer mask for the adjustment layer) to localise and blend in the adjustment.


There are many different ways of attacking a "problem" image. Sometimes, it's just reducing the colours of the B/G; sometimes it's complete replacement; sometimes it's clone.

When I tackle a clone job I still use the same basic principles I'll lasso the problem area and copy it to another layer first. Then use the clone stamp tool (followed by healing brush or patch to restore texture). Always working on a new layer so I can quickly compare to the original and see if I've gone too far

Here's an example of MAJOR cloning as described: http://www.ephotozine.com/u16488/gallery/714577
(Hover the mouse over [2] to see the before )

Matt

It would be good to be able to see at least one of your shots to comment on...
Matt

Nic, perhaps you should try an alternative repairer first.
The K10D has been discontinued for some time...

Try Asahi Photo - they still hold parts for many looooong since discontinued Pentax items

Matt

My FA24-90 got damaged and I had it repaired by Asahi Photo. When it came back it was soooo much better than it ever was

You might want to see if the FA24-90 could be economically calibrated.

The bokeh on the FA24-90 is similar to the DA 17-70, and much smoother than the 16-45 IMO.

That said, the 16-45 is a brilliant lens for landscapes - and can still be had new from SRS at a reasonable price (if you hurry!)

Matt

The OME-53 (IIRC) viewfinder magnifier helps a lot. It brings it almost to the same size...
Matt

Do you mean at the same ISO?

One thing with CCD (as in the K10D) is they get pretty warm, so longer exposures heat up the CCD and increase the level of noise.
A cooled CCD (or indeed a lower current CMOS sensor as in the K20D & K7) is less susceptible to this phenomenon.

Additionally, battery noise has to be factored in - though this is less of an issue with the K10D, K20D, K7 that have Lithium Ion cells. In the *ist-D, using poor batteries for longer exposures dramatically increased the level of noise - the batteries get warm and can generate their own noise.

So, I don't think it can be compared film... but there are additional factors in the circuit design as a whole that need to be considered

HTH!
Matt

1st) For bringing out image detail. You need to read the manual But a good place to start is the "Natural Fine" for ISO100-400 images.

2nd) Relates to how much time it spends eking detail out of the demosaic algorithm (IIRC). "80" is a good compromise. "100" may slow down display updates but is good for critical work.

3rd) Use this ONLY when creating smaller images. If you're outputting native size images, then leave unsharp mask OFF.

HTH!
Matt

Morten,
I use the one at http://focustestchart.com/chart.html
Set it up like this:
* Daylight lit room
* Camera on tripod - level!
* Stick chart on wall
* Position tripod at 45 degrees to the wall
* The centre focus point should be pointing at the large black bar in the middle.
* Move the lens to infinity and use the "AF" button to focus (I have my shutter release on half press to NOT autofocus )
* Examine the picture, adjust AF and repeat as needed.

HTH!
Matt