SMC-FA 80-320 diagram


MattMatic

Link Posted 03/09/2007 - 16:47
Does anyone have a PDF of the disassembly diagram for the SMC-FA 80-320?
Mine has fungus and I don't think it's worth sending off for repair (unless it's around 30 all in).

Failing that I'll contact Pentax UK.

Thanks!
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)

stevejcoe

Link Posted 04/09/2007 - 08:41
Sorry Matt, my searches on the FA 80-320 only came back with your post and a problem with 'A' position contacts.

The price of these has been rising staeadily over the last few months. I believe one was sold on EBay last weekend for over 130, so a 30 repair is probably worth it.
I guess it depends on the extent of the fungus. It has always been my understanding that fungus 'feeds' on the coatings, causing permanent damage.

Clarky

Link Posted 04/09/2007 - 09:05
Quote:
I believe one was sold on EBay last weekend for over 130, so a 30 repair is probably

I am watching one on E-Bay Aust which has a few days to run and is sitting with no bids at 60quid .
Camera:|K-7|
Pentax Lenses:|DA12-24/f4 ED AL|DA35Ltd Macro|FA31Ltd|FA77Ltd|FA50/1.4|F70-210|FA20-35 f4/AL|A*200/f4 Macro ED|A50/1.7|A50 Macro f2.8|1.7xAF adapter|
Voigtlander|125/f2.5SL Macro APO Lanthar|
Sigma Lenses:|EX DG 100-300 f4|2X & 1.4X TC|
Flashes:|AF540FGZx2|RingFlash AF160FC|

stevejcoe

Lee Ash

Link Posted 08/09/2007 - 10:53
Just to jump in here... I sold my 80-320mm on ebay last week... the bidding reached 160!!!! Honest!
Lee

stevejcoe

Link Posted 08/09/2007 - 11:00
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=160153232633&a...

The item I mention earlier in this thread sold this morning for 134.

MattMatic

Link Posted 24/10/2007 - 21:45
Tried to get Pentax UK to give me a diagram... gave up in the end

Had a little time this morning, as well as a small brainwave about how the lens fits together... and managed to repair the 80-320mm

Hint: underneath the rubber focus ring are three screws that remove a collar. Underneath that collar will appear three more screws that hold, with the aid of little metal clamps, the front barrel. You'll only see them when at 320mm and at the closest focus distance. (These clamps set the infinity focus point, BTW) Removing these screws enabled the front barrel to be removed, and having loosened L1 with a lens spanner you can push out L2+L3 from the rear (ie out through the front). A hard clean with some cleaning fluid and a soft lens cloth and the fungus is gone. In fact, almost completely! There were only a few tiny marks that are visible if you breath on the element.

All looks good - so I'll give it a run over the next few weeks to check it over.

If anyone has anything similar, and the descriptions are not enough, then I could possibly rustle up a few images...

Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)

Kim C

Link Posted 25/10/2007 - 16:07
Matt,
If you want to do the images, I can convert to pdf and put it on the repairs page of my website.

As far as the fungus and etching is concerned, it would appear that it is only a couple of strains which produce the acid. They don't feed on the coatings as such but the acid actually dissolves the glass, hence the damage. This happens later in the life cycle so as long as it is caught early, it normally cleans. Other forms of fungus don't produce the acid and normally clean quite well. After some advice from a couple of good repair techs, I have found it is better to "wet" clean them using something like Calotherm. That way, there is less likelyhood of the cleaning itself causing damage.

Kim

MattMatic

Link Posted 25/10/2007 - 17:13
Kim,
To do complete images, I'd have to take it apart again... which isn't a big deal

I used some CCD cleaning fluid as my Eclipse fluid wasn't at home at the time. Needed a nice soft cloth (used a Lee filter cloth) and it polished up very nicely indeed. In fact, when assembled there's absolutely no evidence there was any fungus at all.

Might disassemble, photograph, and clean again with Eclipse to make sure.

It was surprisingly easy to do though
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)

Kim C

Link Posted 25/10/2007 - 17:18
These usually are when you know the right way.

Kim

MattMatic

Link Posted 26/10/2007 - 16:10
Here's a quick gallery of the steps:
http://www.pbase.com/mattmatic/smcpfa80320

Kim - feel free to download and PDF if you want
Hope this helps!

As usual: absolutely no responsibility is taken or assumed. You use this information at your peril
(But it got my lens back in working order )
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)

Clarky

Link Posted 26/10/2007 - 16:55
Thanks Matt you are too clever for your own good
Camera:|K-7|
Pentax Lenses:|DA12-24/f4 ED AL|DA35Ltd Macro|FA31Ltd|FA77Ltd|FA50/1.4|F70-210|FA20-35 f4/AL|A*200/f4 Macro ED|A50/1.7|A50 Macro f2.8|1.7xAF adapter|
Voigtlander|125/f2.5SL Macro APO Lanthar|
Sigma Lenses:|EX DG 100-300 f4|2X & 1.4X TC|
Flashes:|AF540FGZx2|RingFlash AF160FC|

MattMatic

Link Posted 26/10/2007 - 17:04
LOL! Only took me a year or more to work it out
Finally got fed up waiting for others and decided to suss it out myself
Should've done that in the first place
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)

Clarky

Link Posted 26/10/2007 - 17:22
I don't think i would be game to do it myself. I would probably put the elements in back to front and leave my keys or something inside the barrel
Camera:|K-7|
Pentax Lenses:|DA12-24/f4 ED AL|DA35Ltd Macro|FA31Ltd|FA77Ltd|FA50/1.4|F70-210|FA20-35 f4/AL|A*200/f4 Macro ED|A50/1.7|A50 Macro f2.8|1.7xAF adapter|
Voigtlander|125/f2.5SL Macro APO Lanthar|
Sigma Lenses:|EX DG 100-300 f4|2X & 1.4X TC|
Flashes:|AF540FGZx2|RingFlash AF160FC|

ChrisA

Link Posted 26/10/2007 - 17:29
Clarky wrote:
Thanks Matt you are too clever for your own good

Fortunately, not too clever for our own good though.

It is scary, though.

You can just see it, can't you...

SuperMatt wrote:
"Ooh my lens has fungus.... but that's no problem for my super powers. I'll just dismantle it (5 mins), remove it and put it back together again. No probs. That's ten minutes total. I know, I'll do it again, and just for a challenge, take pictures with my super mind powers. It's pretty easy holding the K10D in space telekinetically. There we go, 15 mins and done. Bored now... I'll just go and write another Post-processing how-to guide.

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