If I remember correctly, the 'macro' area on the focusing ring is a different colour to the rest of the scale, green I think. Just turn the focusing ring until it's inside that area, probably to the end of that area until it can't go any further. Some older lenses might need some gentle persuasion to move through a detent/stop.

Other makes, like Sigma, have a switch. You need to move the zoom ring to one end of the zoom range, then engage the macro switch, then you can zoom a bit further, or mamybe it allows the focusing ring to move a bit further.

Sorry if this is a bit vague but it's a long time since I had any of those type of lens.

Actually, now I think about it, it's probably the zoom setting that allows you to go into 'macro' on the F and FA lenses. It'll be obvious when you look at the lens anyway, or should be.

Failing that, downloaad the F and/or FA series lens manuals from www.pentax-manuals.com , you should find all the info. you need in those.

If you are lucky, the fungus might be limited to only the front element.

These are normally easily removable.

First you unscrew the 'beauty' ring (the metal ring around the front element which has the lens model etc engraved on it).

Form there you may need a lens spanner to undo the slotted front element retaining ring. The front element might also be held on with screws but it should be reasonably self evident.

Once you have the front element off you'll be able to see if the fungus has spread further.

Clean off the fungus with a micro-fibre or lint free cloth with acetone or alcohol. If using acetone, be sure to keep it away from any painted or varnished surfaces.

Don't use commercially available nail polish remover unless it is transparent and states that it's 100% acetone.

This video might help.

The kit lenses that would have been bought at the same time as a Samsung GX10 are not weather resistant. The DA* lenses are weather resistant, as are the newer kit lenses and others that are labelled with the "WR" suffix.

I surprised you didn't then, it's been on here in two different threads since 5/10/2012.

Excellent images. You certainly wouldn't want a poke in the eye from that beak.

I prefer the colours in #1 and the expression in #2.

Hi Terry,

Many third party lens makers tag their lenses as Macro. This can be a bit erroneous because the true definition of macro-photography is the taking of images at 1:1 or higher magnification. These lenses, typically zoom lenses like yours, would be more accurately named as "Close focusing" rather than "Macro" because they cannot achieve 1:1 magnification, normally they are around 1:2 (half life size) or similar. That said, I had a Sigma lens similar to yours, perhaps an older model, and I was able to make some pretty good images of insects, flowers and so on. At least it'll get you started in macro-photography to determine whether you like this branch of our hobby.

True macro lenses are primes offering 1:1 magnification at their closest focusing distance. These range from fixed focal lengths of around 35mm to 200mm. The longer the focal length, the greater the minimum focusing distance, which is handy if you come across stinging or biting creatures and would prefer to maintain a safer distance from them..

There are a number of ways of achieving macro images.

1: A reversed 28mm lens makes good images, but a bit fiddly to adjust aperture and get metering right.
2: As has been said, a 50mm prime on a set of extension tubes or bellows. Tubes having electrical contacts is preferred because they retain correct metering and aperture control.
3: Reverse mount say, a 50mm lens on a 200mm lens (or similar) to get approx 4:1 magnification.
4: Invest in a dedicated macro lens of around 100mm focal length.

There is a Sigma 105mm macro lens and a set of tubes for sale on here at the moment.

Whichever you decide to try, lighting is of paramount importance when doing macro. The best subject in the world taken with the most expensive macro lens in the world will probably look rubbish without good lighting.

The DA 16-45mm 1:4 or DA* 16-50mm 1:2.8 lenses are good choice for landscapes and general walkabout lens.

What's best is what you find easy to use and that produces the results you want.

My only choice is Lightroom (LR) being a Windows user and the upgrade to LR4.2 is well worth trying.

Is it possible that you can download a trial version of Aperture to compare the two together for yourself?

Wow, what an incredibly helpful post.