K-r @ Macro

Gentlemen, Names Terry[77yrs] looking for something that will do some Macro on my K-r [have kit lens and 28-90], anything suitable considered, "NOT LOOKING FOR SOMETHING FOR NOTHING", but reasonable, and will give me a start, simpler the better, any "polite"??? suggestions appreciated, condition not important,hoping someone can help or advise Regards Terry

Hi Terry

Can't get much simpler, or cheaper, than a Pentax M 50mm f1.7 and a set of manual extension tubes. Likely to set you back around £60 for both and the added benefit is you will have an excellent prime lens for low light as well.

Manual focus only, but that tends to be better for macro anyway. If you decide you don't take to macro after all you will always get your money back when you re-sell.

An A series lens and a set of extension tubes with contacts will make life a bit easier, but will cost approximately twice as much.

Plenty of information on the forum about using manual lenses with the K-r for macro and other situations, but if you have any questions someone will always help.

All the macro images on my portfolio were taken with a K-r and a M 50mm 1.7 and either extension tubes or a macro converter. They aren't great, but will give you an idea of what can be done.

There are a number of ways of achieving macro images.

1: A reversed 28mm lens makes good images, but a bit fiddly to adjust aperture and get metering right.
2: As has been said, a 50mm prime on a set of extension tubes or bellows. Tubes having electrical contacts is preferred because they retain correct metering and aperture control.
3: Reverse mount say, a 50mm lens on a 200mm lens (or similar) to get approx 4:1 magnification.
4: Invest in a dedicated macro lens of around 100mm focal length.

There is a Sigma 105mm macro lens and a set of tubes for sale on here at the moment.

Whichever you decide to try, lighting is of paramount importance when doing macro. The best subject in the world taken with the most expensive macro lens in the world will probably look rubbish without good lighting.

You could do a lot worse than this
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/smc-pentax-m-100mm-macro-f4-37929
I had one and it worked great on the K-r still wish i had not sold it!!

Hi Milamber
Many thanks for the info and advice, and its around my budget as well , how do i get in to your portfolio please, new to all this. also do i put a wanted ad in one of the forums for what i require , thanks again Terry

Hi Terry

If you click on my user name there will be a link to 'portfolio' just to the right of centre towards the top of the page. There are far better examples on other people's portfolios, but mine were all done with the setup I described.

You could put a wanted advert in the classifieds and I'm sure you will get a response, but Ebay is a good place to look as well as bargains do crop up from time to time.

Hi Terry, just to let you know in a friendly way of course, there are Ladies on this forum and website too! I'm sure you meant no offence.

Regarding macro, there's good advice already on here. You don't mention whether or not you have good eyesight; this can be quite a factor when deciding what sort of setup you would be best with for macro work. If your eyesight is very good, the manual route suggested by Milamber is an option, but if your eyes are not so good, you'd be better off with an 'A' (Automatic) aperture lens, like the Sigma 105mm F2.8 DG EX Macro that is currently being offered for sale by one of the forum members.

The automatic lens will remain at its maximum aperture until you take the shot; this makes the viewfinder image much brighter and therefore it's easier to focus accurately.

Regards
David

Quote :- "The automatic lens will remain at its maximum aperture until you take the shot; this makes the viewfinder image much brighter and therefore it's easier to focus accurately. Regards David"

Please correct me if I'm wrong, David, but I thought ALL Pentax K Mount lenses (not just those with an 'A' setting) stayed at full aperture for focussing until the shot is fired ? The only difference being that the 'A' lenses allow automatic aperture selection by the camera rather than manual ?

If so, an 'M' or 3rd party lens will be cheaper.

Peter

Hi David

I was just trying to respond as well, but I think Peter has answered it. I think this is why we have to remove that bit of black paint on the anodised extension tubes. Certainly with my M 50mm and a fully manual set of tubes, whatever aperture I select, the view through the viewfinder stays at maximum aperture until I press the green button for stop down metering. The aperture closes temporarily to check the shutter speed and then opens fully again until the shutter button is depressed.

As Peter says, the A lens just enables you to set the lens at A and remove the need for pressing the green button. It's definitely easier, but a set of PKA tubes and an A 50mm are going to be nearer £120, where the other two could be picked up for £50 or less.

At the price of the PKA pair, Terry might be better off looking at a dedicated macro lens. The M 100 f4 mentioned earlier in the thread is a great lens, but only 1:2 so tubes still probably needed for proper macro. The extra working distance from the subject afforded by the 100mm isn't to be dismissed though as bending down gets more difficult with age....

Hi Peter, I probably didn't explain too well, I was referring mainly to reversing a 50mm f1.7 as described by Peter above (I got Milamber's and Peter's post mixed up), although I didn't make this clear. If you reverse any lens to gain macro capability it relies on whatever aperture is set manually which can make the viewfinder image very dim when using apertures of F11, F16 etc. Also, if you use a manual lens on tubes (or an auto lens on manual tubes) you lose the stop-down metering which althought it doesn't affect focussing it does make it more difficult to get accurate exposures, especially if you want to take shots quickly.

Hope this clears up any confusion caused.

Regards
David

The Sigma 105 advertised on here recently gives 1:1 macro, but it is a bit more expensive than the manual routes mentioned. I tend to use all three approaches, i.e. genunine macro lens, manual tubes and reversing, but the most consistent results are obtained with the macro lens. The most fun (and most difficult) is reversing something like the 50mm F1.7 (very sharp), but I haven't yet tried reversing one on a 200mm lens! I might give this a go.

Regards
David

You could buy the A* 200mm in the classifieds, David. That ought to be sharp

It needs to be pretty sharp for £1500

I think my Sigma 105 DG EX is better VFM

Cheers
David

Good morning Ladies @ Gentlemen, [ and sorry to the ladies for not including them in my previous messages, i apologise most sincerely ] Firstly may i Thank everyone who have responded to my messages and for your help, you are very kind all of you .
David has mentioned a good point as regards eyesight, which i admit is not 100% [2 x cataracts done]but i still am allowed to drive.
i did not realise that Macro was so involved and are now wondering if the "old brain" could cope Hi,but i usually get there in the end.If anyone out there has anything that they think might get me started please contact me [ i have an e/mail address], my wife has just reminded me that i have a brand new Sigma70-300 1:4-5.6 APO Macro lens which has on the side NORMAL ** FULL[macro at 300] i think you move a flat type of switch to change it [ i am a bit afraid of damaging it really] Thanks again to you all Kindest Regards Terry [Plymouth}