First question you should ask yourself is, "when will I use it, and what for?"

This may seem a simple and obvious question but the answer is far from simple.

I use a Manfrotto 055PROB + spiked feet + 488RC2 ball head for studio & general type work. For carrying about I use a Manfrotto 190D + 438 leveller + 484RC2 ball head and a Manfrotto 679 Monopod + 234RC head.

I like to use the 055PROB setup most because it is so versatile. The centre post can be removed and refitted so that it is parallel to the ground plane. This makes top down shots much simpler and keeps the tripods legs out of shot. This is a pretty heavy tripod though, too heavy for me to want to carry it about all day but it is rock solid, and a dream to use. You will need a tripod similar to this if you want to take shots at near to ground level. Otherwise you'll need to buy a second centre column and cut it to length.

11 volt trigger voltage is fine. Sorry I know nothing more about your flash.

Thanks Matt.

I used JPG . . . until I learned of the advantages of RAW. I'm not entirely sure that the controls you mention actually have any effect in RAW mode.

I tend to keep mine set to default (middle) setting because I know I can adjust them on a frame by frame basis when I get them home.

If you want to adjust them 'in the field', your decision needs to be on a frame by frame basis too which is another reason for using RAW because that's 3 fewer on-camera settings to get wrong, potentially.

I only ever use the centre-spot for focussing. I can see little point in multi-point focus where the camera decides which focus point it is going to use. It can't possibly know which point in the image I want to focus on and can sometimes ruin an otherwise perfectly good image.

I am a firm supporter of modern cameras 'intelligent' electronics . . . as long as it can be turned off. My preference then is for centre-spot focus, average or centre-weighted metering, and either fully manual or aperture priority for exposure. Oh, and RAW mode, so that I have some latitude for exposure errors (mine, not the cameras).

One other consideration when making your choice (apart from price) is the weight.

My:-
SMCP(K)1:1.2 weighs 417 grams (including caps and filter).
SMCP-M 1:1.4 weighs 250 grams (including caps - no filter).
SMCP-A 1:1.7 weighs 193 grams (including caps and filter).
SMCP-F 1:1.7 weighs 243 grams (including caps and filter).
The 1.2 has a 52mm filter thread compared to 49mm on the other two which also might influence your decision.

The 1.2 is certainly weighty but oh so lovely.

Whichever you decide, if its a good one, you'll not be disappointed. If you need that extra bit of speed for night shots, the 1.4 is an excellent choice.

Georges mule versas thoroughbred analogy rings true here. The *istD is not only more pleasing to look at and to hold, it was aimed at a different user type.

Some would argue, me included, that the Pentax *istD is a far superior camera in terms of build quality, ergonomics, and functionality and therefore worth at least twice the price of the 300D. Certainly, if you had a lens collection of more than 2 or 3 at the time you were buying, the *istD would have been a much cheaper option overall.

My first SLR camera was a Pentax Super-A which I bought new in 1983/4 with the 'standard' SMCP-A 50mm 1:1.7 and a 70-210mm Takumar-A Zoom. I chose it over any other make available at that time simply because the quality of Pentax Engineering outshone any other. It was supremely reliable up to the point only a few years ago when the shutter refused to fire and couldn't be fixed.

Before buying an SLR I used a Petri 7 Rangefinder camera which I have recently been reuinited with. My dad had kept it for years and guess what, it still works a treat. Totally manual and not a battery in sight. The metering relies on a CDs cell which surrounds the lens. Unfortunately it has been dropped at some point in its long life and the filter thread is wrecked.

After the demise of my Super-A I used Fujifilm compacts until I discovered that Pentax had produced a long awaited digital body that my existing lens collection would work with. I now have 2 X *istD bodies, and an MZ-S.

As George says, all Pentax branded guns will work with your camera. Some of the functions found on newer guns (AF-360/540FGZ) however are not supported. Wireless flash for instance.

One of the most versatile Pentax guns I have used is the AF-280T. It lacks trailing curtain and high speed synch, nor does it offer focus assist but otherwise its an excellent gun with a bounce and swivel head, TTL and manual modes.

One very important question you must ask about second hand flashes is the condition of the battery compartment and its cover. Many occasional users often leave batteries in them which eventually leak and can cause significant corrosion.

There are of course many third party flashes having Pentax dedication which will also work with you camera but my recommendation is to buy Pentax.

All of the 'blurb' that I have read indicates that power zoom is not supported on the K10D. Those contacts are inside the camera behind the lens mount.