It depends very much on which phase of the moon you are trying to photograph. You will need a higher ISO setting, when only fractional parts of the moon are visible, than when shooting a full moon.

I took some shots of the (almost) full moon recently with a 135-600mm zoom + 2x converter. I used f8, 1/60th sec, ISO 200 for my most succesful shot.

You will need a tripod and preferably cable release to get anything like a sharp image.

The K10D has more technology inside it than just a few more MP's. You have the PRIME imaging engine and shake reduction (if you are using it) to thank for much of the improvement you (and others) are enjoying.

You're right. I'm not amused.

It's unfair to hijack somebody else's thread. To do it with somebody else's photo . . . not on. You haven't even commented on the original posters excellent photo.

Absolutely stunning and backs up my comment about one of your other pics Re: The model not looking directly at the lens. Sometimes the shot is better when they don't . . . and they don't come much better than this.

What a truly excellent photograph.

PS: I'm beginning to miss Merlin though

Cheers,

Pentax Part Number 30150, list price £29.99 incl VAT

Well you should all have Version 1.10 for your K10D's now. If not, get the Pentax Official version here. The only difference as far as I can tell between the Pentax released product and the 'bootleg' version I loaded, is the modification date and time of the .bin file being different. The latter has a later date and time. I haven't compared the two files to determine any coding differences.

Enjoy.

I've noticed a high degree of green/red vertical banding at low ISO (100) when increasing the exposure of underexposed areas of RAW (DNG) images using Adobe Camera RAW.

I shot some images of the setting sun yesterday evening and had some very underexposed foreground. Although the sun in the shot got completely blown out, the foreground had significant and noticeable banding.

That said, this may have been a bit of an unfair test. Arguably, a heavily underexposed shot (or part of a shot) lacks certain image detail which no software can recover (AFAIK).

I can confirm that wireless use of the built-in flash works very well. I have used it in combination with 1 x AF540FGZ and 2 x AF360FGZ with the popup acting as both master & controller.

Wireless High Speed Sync is not available and surprisingly, neither is the option (that the *istD has) of using the OK button to test fire the flash (just in case Pentax firmware developers are reading this).

Do you have a handheld meter to cross check?

Lilly,

It looks like the AF220T is a TTL only flash. It will therefore not work properly with the K10D.

It'll probably discharge 100% with no control from the camera. Armed with that information, you can still use it and get good results but you'd have to calculate the correct aperture setting from the flash to subject distance. That asssumes that I am correct in thinking it'll discharge fully each time.

I would recommend you look for a flashgun which has some manual control over flash output/duration or best of all, look for a AF360FGZ or AF540FGZ flash. These are the only flashes which are supported fully by the K10D and are IMHO the only guns that will give you consistant results. It seems that anything less than a P-TTL capable gun is going to be a pain to use if you are not familiar with manual guns, flash meters, etc.

The AF360FGZ is a fine gun, surpassed only by the AF540FGZ which does bounce & swivel and has a higher output power. The AF360FGZ does bounce only.