Mannesty

Joined: 17th February 2005

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Mannesty
Quote:
Chris wrote:
Are you suggesting that the final pre-flash from the camera takes place while the shutter is open?

I hope this isn't the case!

Quote:

Sorry Chris, but that is the case. Both flashes fire at the same time in any wireless mode. When the onboard is used as a controller, it still fires, but at a reduced output.

Take a wireless shot in the mirror, that'll prove it to you, you'll see both flashes light up.
You're quite right, I take it all back, my apologies.

How crap is that!!!

Why on earth can't it know the timing of the external gun's reaction, and the length of time it takes to open the shutter, so that the final pre-flash can fire before the shutter opens?

Grrr...
No apology necessary. AFAIK that's how all camera based wireless flash controllers work.

At least it does work and if you wanted to illiminate that camera flash from your composition you'd have to use radio or IR wireless triggers/receivers.

Comment by Mannesty posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 10:01

Mannesty
The communication system between the 2 flashes is a series of light pulses from the flash tube, not radio or IR.

The 'instruction' for the wireless slave flash to fire once the leading shutter curtain is open, and before the trailing shutter curtain has started to move, comes from a pulse (or series of pulses) of light from the onboard controller. Like it or not, that light illuminates your subject in some small way. With a human subject, you may even see it refelected in their eyes.

The only way to overcome this is to use a hot shoe mounted radio trigger and flash mounted receivers . . . . or wires.

Comment by Mannesty posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 09:51

Mannesty
Quote:
Mannesty wrote:
Quote:
If the built-in is controller, then only the external flash fires.
Not true. The built-in certainly does fire because it is that small flash which triggers the wireless slave.
If you read what I wrote again, you'll see that I distinguish carefully between what happens before the shutter opens, and what happens after.

I've hopefully clarified it a little with what I've added in bold below:

Quote:

Then the shutter opens. Then...

If the built-in is master, then both it and the external flash fire after the shutter has opened

If the built-in is controller, then only the external flash fires after the shutter has opened.

In the latter case, I don't see how the camera-pre flashes can affect the exposure, since all they're doing is telling the external gun what to do.
Are you suggesting that the final pre-flash from the camera takes place while the shutter is open?

I hope this isn't the case!
Sorry Chris, but that is the case. Both flashes fire at the same time in any wireless mode. When the onboard is used as a controller, it still fires, but at a reduced output.

Take a wireless shot in the mirror, that'll prove it to you, you'll see both flashes light up.

PS: I didn't need to read your post again. I knew you were wrong the first time I read it . . .

Comment by Mannesty posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 09:38

Mannesty
When the built-in flash is used as a wireless controller, it DOES contribute a very small amount of light to the composition. Fire it into a mirror, you will see the flash in the resulting image.

Quote:
If the built-in is master, then both it and the external flash fire.
True.

Quote:
If the built-in is controller, then only the external flash fires.
Not true. The built-in certainly does fire because it is that small flash which triggers the wireless slave.
In the normal course of events, when you press the shutter button:-

1: Leading curtain moves
2: Flash fires when whole frame is exposed to light
3: Trailing curtain moves

At 2: above, the onboard flash fires to trigger the wireless slave.

Comment by Mannesty posted on K10D failure with pop-up flash at 14/01/2008 - 09:12

Mannesty
Quote:
How did you get the lens for that great price?Appears to be 130 pounds on the website.Do I need to take along my pretty sister?
www.warehouseexpress.co.uk sometimes have some amazing bargains. I got hold of a brand new Pentax fit Sigma 135-400mm lens from them for less than £200. C&N versions were nearly £500 at the time.

That was however at a time before the rise in popularity of the Pentax brand.

Comment by Mannesty posted on Tamron 70-300 DI LD - First Impressions at 24/06/2008 - 07:36

Mannesty
Pete,

That sliding menu system just doesn't work very well. If you move the mouse to the right, over landscape pics, then back to natural pics, it slides another menu under the mouse cursor, then moves to that one. Irritating in the extreme.

Pics look good though.

Cheers,

Comment by Mannesty posted on Website revamped again at 11/01/2008 - 12:42

Mannesty
Quote:
I have taken photos in pitch black with my K10D and the built in flash. This strobes to light the scene and aid focus. I assume a compatable flash should do the same thing.

The red grid I am aware of was I though, infrared, and I believe the K10D can't see infrared though I might be wrong.
As far as I am aware, it is only the built-in flash which strobes to assist focus. Any flash having a purpose designed focus assist lamp will use it, not strobe the scene.

It has been noted elsewhere under IR photography topics that the K10D is much less sensitive to IR light than the *istD was due to the filter over the sensor. Maybe this accounts for it not 'seeing' the grid pattern from AF assist capable flashes.

Comment by Mannesty posted on taking photos in the dark at 11/01/2008 - 14:17

Mannesty
Quote:
K10/Tammy combo failed to lock onto anything in the dark (murk).

How do you take pictures in the dark?
Surely . . . you need a K9 . . . sorry, couldn't resist.
Fact, your camera cannot function properly in the dark, any more than a cat can see in the pitch black, a common myth.
Fact, your camera needs a bright enough light source in order to achieve focus lock because it needs to 'see' some contrast in the surfaces it's focussing on. Without this, you need to use manual focus, but you can't see anything to focus on.
Fact, you need a bright enough light source to capture an image.

Now, if you are in a field, at night, with lots of green grass, a red light is useless for focussing because green surfaces do not reflect red light. That's probably why you may have had more success with your Fuji 9600.

A simple remedy is to use a torch for AF and if your flash doesn't fire as a slave, either it's not compatible with your camera, something is broken, or you haven't set it up correctly. Chances are you set the flash too far away from it's triggering source which wasn't bright enough to trigger it.

Does the flash fire as a slave OK in indoor lighting? Was something obscuring the slave sensor?

Comment by Mannesty posted on taking photos in the dark at 10/01/2008 - 22:57

Mannesty
This info begs a question . . .

Does Pentax design/manufacture for Samsung, or is it Samsung designs/manufactures for Pentax.

If the former, how on earth did anybody get permission to release this Samsung info ahead of Pentax?

CMOS sensor too, CCD ditched.

Comment by Mannesty posted on Samsung GX20! at 09/01/2008 - 19:36

Mannesty
She missed.

Comment by Mannesty posted on My wife shot me... at 09/01/2008 - 19:08

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