Rebel.

Excellent review, thanks for taking the trouble.

Pentax 10-17mm is a fisheye lens, meaning it is of curvilinear design. The Sigma 10-20mm and Pentax 12-24mm lenses are both of rectilinear design. The latter keep straight lines straight (as best they can anyway) no matter where they are in the frame. Fisheye lenses will only produce straight lines across the centre of the lens.

Software is available to correct the fisheye effect making it more like the results from a 'proper' lens. (Let's see who bites . . . fisheye . . . bites . . . get it? Oh never mind.)

You should be very impressed with the SMCP-F 70-210mm Zoom. It is a fine lens, due in part to it having at least one extra low dispersion (ED) element.

My only complaint would be it's weight. At 555 grams it's no lightweight.

Not a bargain at £100, but a reasonable deal. Well done.

George,

Your 240Z surely elliminates the preflash that you would get from the pop-up PTTL flash. Would that preflash not trigger your slaves to fully discharge (assuming they are set to 100% power manually) rendering them inoperable at the time the pop-up fires as a main flash and the shutter is open?

I can understand that the slaves will not be fully discharged during preflash if they are set to auto and the flash to subject distance is not too great.

Terry,

your contribution to this thread is appreciated, thanks.

Regards,

It seems that there is (see Terry's illustrated posts), it's not very controllable and is not true wireless, but with experimentation . . . it works, and you don't need an expensive flash gun to achieve it.

Terry,

I'm impressed, my post was not intended to provoke and your point is proven.

Now I'm confused . . . .

Tell me what settings you had on the AF360FGZ and the camera. I note from your previous post that you set the flash to wireless mode, which slave mode are you set to? If it was set to mode 2 (dumb) and on full power, I'm very surprised that it could recharge in time for the main flash because it would have surely discharged during the cameras pre-flash cycle.

Alternatively, are you able to eliminate the pre-flash from the cameras onboard flash?

I don't have a K100D so I can't test it. I'm assuming you do have a K100D.

Not with a K100D, it doesn't do wireless using the built-in flash. Two wireless capable external flashes are required.

I suspect that your 'wireless' flash is simply working as a dumb slave and is being triggered by the preflash of the onboard. If you haven't manually reduced the output power the external flash will disharge 100% at that point. When the shutter opens, and the onboard flash fires again, your external flash will still be recharging and it will not be contributing any light to the scene.

If you reduce the output power manually, it could well fire every time the onboard fires but then you simply have manual slave flash, not wireless P-TTL.

To test it, take a photo of the slave flash using your setup. Is the slave flash showing any light in the image? I suspect not. Then, take the same picture into a mirror. You'll see which flashes are firing when the shutter is open.
Hold down the backlight button for a couple of seconds. The number 1 or 2 will appear indicating the slave mode. 1 = wireless slave, 2 = dumb slave.

I think you'll be surprised at what you find, and I think it will not be what you expect.

Which you'll find here.

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