Not necessarily.

Do I stick the tape to the top or bottom side of the mirror?

Would you recommend wearing gloves to avoid damaging the mirror?

When using auto focus, a lens might lock on to a point that is slightly in front of your intended focus point and potentially ruining the image. That's called front focussing.

Can you guess what happens in back focussing?

There are plenty of charts available, and references to them elsewhere in this forum, to test your lenses.

If you are happy with your images, don't adjust anything. If you are not happy with your images, check that the dioptre adjustment is correct before adjusting focus.

The K10D has one single adjustment option which is then applied to all lenses. The K20D has this option, and the option to individually store focus adjustments for up to 20 different lenses.

I use my Fujifilm Finepix F810 for trips to shopping malls where a full blown SLR would attract too much attention from local security bods.

It's a few years old now but it's 6Mp images are good enough.

I always use a sniping tool for the reasons iceblinker states.

I set a maximum that I am prepared to pay for an item, and stick it in to my sniping tool. I then forget about the auction until its finished. If I win, good, if not I look for another similar item. I've got over the "I want it and I want it now" auction mentality.

It avoids bidding wars where an item might ultimately cost more than normal retail versions, and I've seen it happen.

Is there a switch to turn the mirror flappy thingy sound off then?

There is a shutter, just like a film camera, right behind the mirror flappy thingy.

The K10D on latest firmware has a debug mode which can be enabled by the use of a USB cable and some software. Once enabled, focussing can be adjusted to eliminate back or front focussing problems.

Earlier firmware versions were able to enable this mode using a power on key sequence.

The K20D has a similar function which can be enabled through its menu.

There is a 3 position switch on the back of the flash head to change the lighting from left pair, both pairs, or the right pair of flash tubes. It has 4 flash tubes in total. It also has left & right modelling lights.

The output light level is controllable only with TTL automation. Output of individual tubes/pairs of tubes is not manually adjustable.

For price comparison, The Metz 15 MS-1 costs around £275 from Warehouse Express, the Sigma EM-140 DG is around £245. Who knows what the Pentax AF160C will cost or when it will become available. These three flashes are P-TTL capable, the AF140C is a TTL flash.

Manual available here but it'll probably cost more than you paid for the light meter.

Jack, they'll ship to Spain, trust me. I've had a number of packages delivered to Spain by SRS. I can't say if they'll do free postage though.