I don't miss my MZ-S at all if I'm honest, other than for it's engineering. I'm an impatient so-and-so and film just isn't immediate enough for me any more. Besides, developing costs in Spain are far from sensible, and I have an MZ-6, Super-A, and ME available if I feel the urge.

I'm glad to know you like the FA 135mm, it is a cracker, and I would certainly miss it if I didn't have the DA*50-135mm. Both are remarkable lenses but it wasn't sensible to keep both. As the IQ was so similar, the flexibility of the zoom did it for me.

Use an extension tube, or several. They are usually sold in sets of 3.

Do your research carefully though. Not all tubes have the elctrical contacts and of those that do, many don't have the full compliment and a minot modification (paint scraping) might be necessary. Even fewer tubes on offer have the pass-through AF screw drive (not a problem for macro work).

If you want a macro focussing rail and variable extension, a bellows is the answer but you will not find one that has the electrical contacts.

I'd hang on to the MZ-S if I were you

AFAIK, all of the MZ (ZX in USA) series bodies with a model name ending with a 0 (zero) have the 'crippled' mount, which means manual lenses can't be used other than at full aperture.

The MZ-6 can use any K mount lens reliably in all modes as its lens mount is not 'crippled'.

The term 'crippled' means that the camera body can not 'read' what aperture is set on the lens. When 'A' series lenses are used and set to the 'A' position, they work fine as the aperture is set by the body. Use 'A' series or newer lenses on a fixed aperture setting and they will not stop down when you make the exposure.

Oddly, some crippled mount cameras (*istDS) stop down the lens after the exposure is finished.

I'm on my third sample of this lens, the others replaced under warranty. So far, no problems with this lens.

If you buy one because you are going to use it regularly, and it lasts 2 years, you have no worries.

If you are not going to use it regularly, why buy it? The DA 16-45mm would suit you better unless you need low light capability. In which case, the lens will be fine, but Pentax bodies are absolute pants/the pits/completely rubbish at focussing in low light. With it's on-board focus assist light, the K7 might be better than the older models.

The question should be, why would I potentially compromise the IQ of a £1000.00 lens with a £5.00 piece of glass?

I can't think of a good reason.

This should tell you TT.

Brilliant. The daddy of 'em all has to be this . . .

What has been described here so well is generally known as 'Metered manual mode'. Most, if not all Pentax cameras (film and digital) going back to the MX era that have a TTL meter have this feature.

I'm not sure this has had a colour 'popping' technique applied. It looks more like a simple desaturation to me. It works well, but there is too much foreground water I feel (as do others).