It sounds like the same reason I've never been into flash - it all looks so complicated!

However, if you're not wanting to do fancy multi-flash work or get a specific look to a photo it's really just a matter of attaching flash to camera and experimenting until you get something you like. Having shutter speed limited to 1/180 sec (flash sync speed) or greater took some getting used to for me, particularly for daytime when there's plenty of ambient light as well as flash light. But working out why the first few shots of a session aren't what I was expecting helps me to remember!

The really difficult part comes at the end - remembering what you did so you can do it again another day .

Steve

It was indeed your thread that was the inspiration for getting the flash out. Thank you.

There was a lot of trial and error to get these pictures and I'm not showing the failures. The flash manual calls this approach taking 'test pictures' rather than 'trial and error', so I don't feel guilty about doing it!

A few things were deliberate though. Camera to manual mode, 1/160 (close to flash sync speed of 1/180) and f8 (for depth of field but not too much). ISO 100 to ensure that background in shadow would be dark. I knew I'd be working close to the minimum focal length of the lens which is about 0.7m. By luck more than judgement this was within the distance range for the flash at the chosen camera settings. Flash was set to manual, the rest was a matter of trying different flash outputs (adjusted from the flash mode dial, not in camera) until I was happy with the result. I did try changing the flash output left/right ratio (via the switch on the flash head), not expecting it to make much difference at 0.7m and it didn't - slight difference in some highlights/reflections.

Post-processing consisted of cropping then adjusting curves to darken the already quite dark background in the 1st (miniature cherry) and 3rd (tulip) and increase the contrast in the catkins in the 2nd (contorted hazel). Nothing major, just slight enhancements. The lighter background in the 2nd is because the lawn (if it deserves that name after being ravaged by last summer ) wasn't in shadow.

I hope that helps. The big thing is to fit the flash to the camera (with charged batteries :wink then experiment.

Steve

Another thread reminded me that it has been a long time since the AF 160FC ring flash came out of the cupboard. So late afternoon a couple of days ago I went into the garden with the flash on the K3 + F 135mm, only to find that its batteries were flat. Having charged the batteries I took it out again yesterday. Here are a few of the results, all belonging to Mrs L. and growing in pots on the patio.

Thoughts, comments etc. welcome as usual.

1. Miniature cherry



2. Contorted hazel



3. Tulip



Steve

The Pentax Q can be used left and single handed. Although it's a right handed camera, it's small enough that the most important controls for shooting can be reached with the fingers of the left hand while holding it with the left hand. Here's what it look like:




And just to prove it, here's a picture I've just taken with the Q + 02 (standard zoom lens) using only my left hand for the entire shooting sequence. First attempt, no practice run - and I'm right handed so not used to doing things like this with my left hand.


To confirm what I did, first set the front wheel to Av before turning camera on. Then while holding the camera betweeen thumb and middle finger of left hand:
- Turn camera on (press button with middle finger).
- Zoom to suit the shot (rotate zoom ring on lens with spare finger while holding the camera between thumb and middle finger)
- Set aperture by rotating rear wheel (with forefinger of left hand)
- Adjust position of camera to frame shot (same as if right handed, nothing unusual here :wink
- Half press shutter button to focus (with middle finger)
- Fully press shutter butting to fire the shutter (with middle finger)
- Review image by pressing review button (another middle finger job)
If I can do it, then someone who is used to using their left hand a lot can surely do it.

I used the original Q. Later models in the Q series are slightly bigger but I've confirmed that it's still possible with the Q-S1. I suppose which model is best depends on the size of the left hand.

Steve

... or you become like me, don't use it often but glad it's there when I do need/want to use it.

As for price, I try to keep track of new and used prices for my photographic kit in case there's a need to make an insurance claim. My AF 160FC cost £400 (new) in 2011. The last time I checked prices, used was £275 (5 years ago on this site), new was £470 (2 years ago, Ricoh Shop, but not sure now whether it was actually in stock). A few hundred pounds doesn't seem unreasonable for a complete, very good condition, boxed, pre-owned AF 160FC.

Steve

By heck . My clockwork stuff is about 60 years old and includes three 0-4-0 locos plus wagons and lots of track, level crossing, points etc. Most of it is in the original boxes, too. I've been assuming £50 for the whole lot 'cos clockwork is dead! Time to educate the grandchildren on being careful with grandad's toys...

Steve

A friend of mine did the same a few years ago. You must be the same age as him Do you watch 'Hornby, A Model World' on Yesterday channel? On UKTVPlay if you've missed it. It's great. They are clearly making things for grown-up boys of a certain age, not so much young kids.

I never had an electric train set but the clockwork one (Hornby O-guage) comes down from the loft every 20 years or so. The grandchildren loved playing with it last time it emerged.

Steve

Hey, I've got that lens too. Hardly ever use it though. Perhaps I should - that's a rather good photo!

Steve

Nice. Used to get one in the garden occasionally but haven't seen one there or anywhere else for years. Strange how these things happen. Starlings were once regulars in the garden, then they disappeared for must be 10 years or more, now they're back again.

Twigs in the way, yes but not disturbingly so. And the OOF twigs at the far left frame the bird nicely. That must surely have been deliberate... .

Steve

Excellent pictures of a structure that's much photographed and very familiar to almost everyone in this country and many further afield. You've managed to get some that are just that little bit different to the usual. I'm rather taken by the delicacy of the structure in no. 5 with the train giving a sense of scale, quite a different feel to the massive curves and arches in the more distant shots. Well done, the long walk down and then up was well worth the effort.

And I bet it would be a long walk over that bridge, too (thinking of the people who keep it in immaculate condition)!

Steve