I'm not sure that you can actually cure this problem, you'd most probably have to seek the advice of a professional lens cleaner and hope that the fungus hasn't damaged the lens' coating beyond economical repair.
Prevention is by far the best option, I always keep my equipment in a well ventilated kit bag or storage box and use silica gel packs to absorb moisture.
Although cheap anyway, a really good source for gel packs is your local shoe shop as most shoes have a pack or two in the box and they invariably end up being thrown away.

Hopefully your lenses have only superficial fungus on the outside of the elements that can be gently wiped off with an anti-static lens cloth or cleaning tissue and any damage (tract marks left behind) will not be noticeable on the final images although it may cause flare in tricky lighting conditions.
Unless you can be assured of a satisfactory repair at a reasonable price, then I should think it is now time to consider replacing the lenses as the situation is most likely to get worse.
Second hand equipment is always a bit of a gamble but there are plenty of lenses available for your camera at very good prices, try on line auctions such as eBay for example.

This is an AF assist light, it should fire automatically when there is insufficient light or contrast for the camera to focus correctly.
If your camera also has an assist light, only one of them will be required and I think the camera light will have priority.

.......actually, it's the other way around - light on flashgun illuminates the subject (at least in the case of my Centon FH80 flash, when mounted on my Z1-P).

It is really quite misleading that manufacturers designate their lenses as 'macro' when they should really be called 'close focus' or something similar.
In theory all lenses of the same focal length should have the same minimum focussing distance but there are a number of ways of constructing a lens so that distance can be reduced and therefore increase the image size on the film plane.
True macro is where the image on the film is life-size or larger (minimum 1:1 object-to-image ratio).

BTW, Vivitar lenses are usually pretty good and represent excellent value for money.

Hi Treve,
I'm determined to get myself a grip strap for my Z1-P one of these days and as you say, they are very difficult to find.
It's interesting that you say some pages have come loose from the manual, as mine purchased brand new with the camera, began shedding it's pages at an alarming rate almost immediately. Pentax UK sent me a replacement which has been fine but I wonder if you and I had copies from a bad batch - I've never had this problem with other Pentax manuals, despite years of use!

Good luck with the sale, would you consider selling seperately?

The 928 is a great camera but a permanently displayed error code means it has developed a fault and needs to go in for repair. The cost will be around £50 and you could probably pick up a replacement for that!
I had no qualms sending my Espio 120 in for repair but the choice is yours.

Wow, I like it

I think that is very smart indeed, well done Kim.

Hi Kim,
That sounds like a fun project, I hope you'll post a pic when it's done

Hamsters are also cute, I trust you don't have a pet python that you're hoping will swallow your camera - mind you, that could make a good picture too!

If I remember correctly, the MV1 has a flash sync speed of 100/s and is a mechanical speed so turning the dial to this position should allow the mirror to reset.
Also, I believe the MV1 can take a motorwind where the MV can't.

I always quite fancied an MV1 (looked very much like a black ME Super which was much sought after at the time) but ended up with the MV.

Very good indeed.........although I suppose you could just refer to that handy little exposure guide printed inside most film boxes!

Basically, the camera will determine the 'correct' exposure and you simply turn the aperture ring until that correct exposure is displayed in the viewfinder. Depending on the camera model, the display will light up green or the over/under exposure warnings will go out or the needle will be centered.
The correct exposure is the combination of shutter speed and aperture as determined by the camera's light meter and there will be many possible combinations. As you increase one, you can decrease the other to maintain the same exposure but you'll be altering the camera's ability to freeze the action and the len's depth of field characteristics.
K mount lenses do not have the electronic contacts that allow some cameras to automatically adjust the aperture.

I hope that helps and that someone can offer more specific advice for your camera and lens as I've not as yet used either.