Ni-MH batteries can be charged (topped up) at any time without suffering from the 'memory effect' that Ni-CADs do.
It is still a good idea however to periodically run them completely flat and then recharge for the period specified by the charger.
There will still be a significant amount of power remaining, long after the level drops below that required for a high-drain device such as digital camera. Therefore, either use a charger with a discharge function or pop the batteries into a low-drain device such as a torch or radio in order to 'flatten' them before recharging fully.

Sandy,
If you can definately rule out the possibility of battery failure (by trying an alternative), then my first course of action would be to contact the retailer.
If you bought locally, it could save you considerable time and expense because: a) he may identify the problem and fix it on the spot, b) arrange for the repair under warranty on your behalf and c) might be prepared to loan a suitable camera to you until yours is returned.

There's a number of 'possible maybe's' but I think it's worth a try.

Good luck.

http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/focusing/

2x magnification

https://www.pentaxuser.com/helpcentre#faq_question8

http://www.pentax.co.uk/photographic/service_repairs_price_guide.html

.........as people keep asking about them!

ps. you'll find details of the models for which repairs are undertaken by Pentax (spares are no longer available for some)

Manufacturers do sometimes vary their designations but generally, PAF stands for Pentax Auto-Focus and PKA for Pentax KA mount.
KA lenses have electronic contacts that enable cameras with program functions to automatically recognise and select aperture settings - as in the case of your A3.
PAF lenses also have these contacts and in some cases are even more advanced, not only are they auto-focus (when used on an auto-focus camera bodies) but they may also have auto-zoom capabilities.
Most if not all PKA and PAF lenses will work perfectly on your A3 in manual-focus mode, as they all use the K style bayonet mount.

might try that with my Espio 120, the drive motor has packed up again, despite being repaired by Pentax and having had very little use since.
There's no way I'm paying for a further repair job, so nothing to lose eh?

Not sure about that Steve, I don't have an A-series adapter but my F 50mm 1.7 / AF 1.7x adapter and Z1-P show what I would expect ie; f1.7 wide open without the converter and f2.8 with converter fitted!

Same result using an A-series 50mm 1.7

A-series adapters may differ but I'd be surprised if they do, particularly as Matt says it's ok on his MZ-3.

That does sound very strange, are the readings always correct without the converter?

If all is well on the MZ-3 then the problem must be with the Z1-P, are you sure that the converter is clicking fully into place?

Is it a manual or AF converter?

Have you received your DS yet, Kevin?
Pentax have promised me a DL to replace a faulty Z1 (minty but with a mirror return problem) but I'm wondering how long I'll have to wait.
I can't believe that they are unable to repair cameras of Z series or later, they should be able to replace the entire innards of such cameras!
I thought that they had maybe destroyed or mislaid my Z1 but your story suggests that they are unable or unwilling to support 35mm at all

Looking forward to the DL though

It's an extremely versatile lens and I've always been happy with mine.

http://www.photodo.com/prod/lens/35lensesmtf.shtml#Pentax

The above link gives you an idea of performance comparisons, my FA does indeed score a little higher (but it is later generation - so maybe it should) but I don't like to read too much into such tests because no two reviewers seem to get the same results and the testing criteria do tend to vary.

In any event Trevor, I expect you bagged yourself a bargain - a genuine Pentax lens with a wide focal range such as yours was pretty darned costly when new - I think the 35-135 was around £230.