All Forum Comments
Comment by johnwhit posted on SDM failures horror stories at 06/07/2010 - 07:24
Algernon wrote:
I'll stick with the Pentax one at least it's the right way round. It's a pity because 2.5x is better than 2x and I would have gone for it for that reason.
I'm actually after one that gives a straight 2x without the 90deg bend.
The magnifier M is a good choice if you want a straight one, metal construction etc. They go for reasonable money on Ebay, I think I got one for £10-15 not long back.I'll stick with the Pentax one at least it's the right way round. It's a pity because 2.5x is better than 2x and I would have gone for it for that reason.
I'm actually after one that gives a straight 2x without the 90deg bend.
Regrds,
John
Comment by johnwhit posted on OLYMPUS OM VARIMAGNI RIGHT ANGLE FINDER - FITS PENTAX at 04/07/2010 - 20:46
Pentaxophile wrote:
- Is that a banana in your pocket or are you just pleased to see me?
- No it's my colostomy bag.
- Is that a banana in your pocket or are you just pleased to see me?
- No it's my colostomy bag.
Comment by johnwhit posted on Why do i need a proper flash? at 04/07/2010 - 11:58
I still shoot Ilford B$W from time to time, usually with an MZ-3 and one of my primes. I tend to keep the DX type lenses to a minimum so I have plenty of choice for film or if they ever produce an FF DSLR
It's nice to use a KX or MX every now and then fitted with a K series prime, but I wouldn't go back to film now I've gone digital.
Regards,
John
It's nice to use a KX or MX every now and then fitted with a K series prime, but I wouldn't go back to film now I've gone digital.
Regards,
John
Comment by johnwhit posted on What did you use today? at 04/07/2010 - 10:05
Snootchies wrote:
Interesting! Buzzards are very well known in my area (hence my assumption), but I did'nt think Peregrin's were. Not that I'm an expert in matters such as these - as is clearly evident!
They're quite common in the Cheshire/Merseyside area, there's at least one that plucks pigeons out of the air when they're disturbed under Runcorn bridge by the sparrowhawksInteresting! Buzzards are very well known in my area (hence my assumption), but I did'nt think Peregrin's were. Not that I'm an expert in matters such as these - as is clearly evident!
Great shot BTW
Regards,
John
Comment by johnwhit posted on A Buzzard Fly-by at 03/07/2010 - 21:01
OK thanks Mike
Regards,
John
Regards,
John
Comment by johnwhit posted on Focus issues. at 03/07/2010 - 20:11
That's a wonderful shot, full of atmosphere and character.
Regards,
John
Regards,
John
Comment by johnwhit posted on Coastal Landscape at 03/07/2010 - 19:54
From the author of the test chart I believe is in use:
"It’s normal, particularly with longer focal lengths, to see the focused area, or depth of field, shifted slightly rearward, as in the pic on the right. This is not a problem as long as the focus line is still within the area that’s in focus."
(DoF is rarely equal either side of the focus point....)
http://focustestchart.com/chart.html
Place the test chart absolutely flat on a level surface. There must be no visible lumps or bumps in the chart. It needs to be flat.
Aim your camera at 45 degrees to the chart.
Focus on the centre of the focus line in the focus box at the centre of the chart.
When shooting your test pics, you need to be close enough that the test chart somewhat more than fills the frame. Get nice and close.
Ensure that you are not so close that the auto focus system is unable to focus due to you being at the limit of the range of focus of your lens.
You can check this by moving your camera closer and closer to the image and testing when it is no longer able to focus and then making sure that you are set up at least a few inches back from this point.
Set your camera to aperture priority mode (“A” on the rotary dial) and adjust the aperture setting as wide as it will go (lowest f-stop number) for the lens you have on the camera. This gives you the shallowest depth of field, which is crucial to this test.
Set the Autofocus system to “AF-S” mode (CSM Menu item 2).
Set the AF-area mode to “Single area” (CSM Menu item 3).
Ensure that you have the centre focus area selected. If not then adjust this using the multi selector button (up/down/left/right). The focus selector lock switch (just below the multi selector button) must be unlocked in order to change/select the appropriate focus area.
If you have extra lighting available, use it to light up the test chart. The chart must be lit more or less from the front. I like to use a bright constant light source, like a halogen flood or similar, but the flash seems to work just fine too. If you’re going to depend on the flash then make sure there’s enough ambient light for the auto focus system to work reliably.
Metering mode and centre weighting is not critical. As long as you’re getting a well lit, bright image out of the camera then it’s fine.
First shoot an initial pic and have a good look at it before you go further. Make sure the test chart is bright and white. Adjust your white balance and shutter speed to get this right. Use more light and/or the flash if necessary.
Use either the remote control (if you have one) or the camera’s self timer to trigger the shutter release in order to avoid any camera shake.
Just trying to help.
Best regards,
John
"It’s normal, particularly with longer focal lengths, to see the focused area, or depth of field, shifted slightly rearward, as in the pic on the right. This is not a problem as long as the focus line is still within the area that’s in focus."
(DoF is rarely equal either side of the focus point....)
http://focustestchart.com/chart.html
Place the test chart absolutely flat on a level surface. There must be no visible lumps or bumps in the chart. It needs to be flat.
Aim your camera at 45 degrees to the chart.
Focus on the centre of the focus line in the focus box at the centre of the chart.
When shooting your test pics, you need to be close enough that the test chart somewhat more than fills the frame. Get nice and close.
Ensure that you are not so close that the auto focus system is unable to focus due to you being at the limit of the range of focus of your lens.
You can check this by moving your camera closer and closer to the image and testing when it is no longer able to focus and then making sure that you are set up at least a few inches back from this point.
Set your camera to aperture priority mode (“A” on the rotary dial) and adjust the aperture setting as wide as it will go (lowest f-stop number) for the lens you have on the camera. This gives you the shallowest depth of field, which is crucial to this test.
Set the Autofocus system to “AF-S” mode (CSM Menu item 2).
Set the AF-area mode to “Single area” (CSM Menu item 3).
Ensure that you have the centre focus area selected. If not then adjust this using the multi selector button (up/down/left/right). The focus selector lock switch (just below the multi selector button) must be unlocked in order to change/select the appropriate focus area.
If you have extra lighting available, use it to light up the test chart. The chart must be lit more or less from the front. I like to use a bright constant light source, like a halogen flood or similar, but the flash seems to work just fine too. If you’re going to depend on the flash then make sure there’s enough ambient light for the auto focus system to work reliably.
Metering mode and centre weighting is not critical. As long as you’re getting a well lit, bright image out of the camera then it’s fine.
First shoot an initial pic and have a good look at it before you go further. Make sure the test chart is bright and white. Adjust your white balance and shutter speed to get this right. Use more light and/or the flash if necessary.
Use either the remote control (if you have one) or the camera’s self timer to trigger the shutter release in order to avoid any camera shake.
Just trying to help.
Best regards,
John
Comment by johnwhit posted on Focus issues. at 03/07/2010 - 19:49
DFA 100mm f/2.8 MACRO, the shot is at f/4 on both images, why? Help others to help you, use the maximum aperture please.
Best regards,
John
Best regards,
John
Comment by johnwhit posted on Focus issues. at 03/07/2010 - 18:13
DoF is rarely equal either side of the focus point, the line is in focus.
Regards,
John
Regards,
John
Comment by johnwhit posted on Focus issues. at 03/07/2010 - 17:53
http://www.lensrentals.com/news/2009.11.01/lens-repair-data-35
"•The Tamron 70-200 f2.8 is joining the Sigma 120-400 and 150-500 (45% failure rate) in the Lensrentals Hall of Shame: lenses we no longer carry because their failure rate is so high we just can’t afford them. Almost half of them have failed, usually after 3 to 6 months in service."
Regards,
John