I think the OP was unsure how much he would get for a faulty K10D, so it's no doubt going to be in the equation if a sale arises.

The K10D is a very fine camera, and it is probably repairable. Why not get a quote from JPS for the repair, bearing in mind the 20% discount for PU Plus members. It might be worth joining up.

The K20D is an obvious upgrade and operationally virtually identical. The K-7 and K-5 are the next obvious choices.

Depending on your location, a local camera club just might have studio facilities for you to try this technique out for yourself.

Alternatively, hiring a small studio is not out of anyone's reach and help is often at hand.

It's quicker to upload to the Gallery, so the choice is there. No particular rules about it, it's a choice.

A studio setting with a white backdrop, studio flash, lots of pictures and full exposure to make sure you get a high key effect.

Not keen on the style personally, but it does seem to be popular.

Your title did reflect that, so my fault.

You can adjust the AF on some models such as the K20D, K-7 and K-5 but I never have. The image snaps into focus and I can see in the viewfinder it's focusing where I expect it to. The images when enlarged are also correctly focused.

I'm suggesting that if it looks sharp it is sharp, so don't worry about it unless you perceive a problem. If there is a problem you can fine tune using something as simple as a ruler at 45 degrees. You adjust the settings in the menu until the focusing point is exactly right, save the setting and the camera will remember the settings for up to 20 lenses,

Best option for me is the simple IR trigger. Works every time and there are no trailing cables to fall over.

I would suggest you handle all the options and that should help you decide what works for you.

There are also plenty of places to buy, although personally I use SRS as much as possible. Good, friendly service, good prices and fast as well.

You just set the camera body to AF, there is no setting on the lens.

Post removed, please watch language.

In the days of film you either bought into the default setting (Colour print, ISO200) or you chose the film speed (grain, i.e., noise) the type (colour print, colour slide, black and white), the developer (style of result) and the printing paper as we do now.

You could invest little knowledge, or a great depth of knowledge.

Pretty much the same as for digital really.