You mean like the Ricoh GR?

That would seem to be the same, or a very similar, CMOS 16MP chip in a small camera with fixed lens, plus the option of a high quality accessory lens for wider angles.

There's no AA filter and the performance is very similar to the K-5 IIs.

The S5i was very tiny, so the choice in Pentax is quite small these days.

The best one is the MX-1, currently available for an amazingly low price considering it started out at over £400. However, it's relatively bulky.

The Ricoh waterproof/shockproof compacts are the latest generation of the Pentax WG series and they have prices to suit depending on model and features wanted. The WG cameras are nice and compact and there's a great little neoprene case for them for less than £10 that's well worth having at the same time.

Otherwise, check out Amazon because they often list older models and there can be some great bargains.

The S5i hasn't been made for a very long time, but you might pick one up from eBay.

On reflection, it also depends on the software used. Pictures2Exe can be set to show full screen, DiCentra can end up cutting off parts of the images.

In general, better to resize accurately, especially if using strange equipment for the first time.

The proportions are exactly the same, so it's usually best to make the images for the 1400x1050 requirement, which is becoming standard, then the smaller size can easily be made from those.

Provided the projector is correctly set up (and it can't be set up for sRGB or AdobeRGB at the same time) you should just prepare your images so look right on your screen. That assumes your kit is also correctly set up.

If your pictures look consistently dark when projected, then lighten them to compensate. If there's a colour balance problem that too can be addressed.

Projectors can handle some images better than others, so it depends on the projector, but if, for example, it doesn't handle dark shadows well, then perhaps think about submitting different images that don't depend on dark shadow detail.

It's always going to be a tricky one and it always was. There were problems with variation in colour slide projection as well.

Just a reminder that this is Pentax User and advising on which Nikon or Canon to buy is off topic for the forums. You need a Canon or Nikon forum for that.

The grass is not always greener....it depends very much on the lenses chosen, but people very successfully take images of fast cars, wildlife and lots of other moving subjects. A lot of it is technique, and manual focus cameras can be used as well, taking a lot of good technique to do so of course.

The first step is to make sure you're not using a filter on that 55-300mm as it doesn't like them and it is a lens that can hunt a bit sometimes. On the other hand, a 400mm f/5.6 Tokina I tried didn't seem to hunt at all. So maybe the Pentax 300mm could be the lens you are looking for, or the 60-250mm zoom. The latter is very smooth and fast, or at least the one I had was.

I've tried many marques and they all have their little quirks regarding AF.

Nikon and Canon are quite capable of being lethargic with some of their lenses. Depending on what you do I suppose, AF is really pretty good across the board.

You see it here as well as everywhere else in the world, on every keyboard in existence and every telephone keypad.

In the UK we call it "hash", but in any event I'm not sure what your objection is, but we shouldn't detour from the thread any further anyway.

I was curious walkeja and the # symbol goes back a very long way. It seems likely that it originates in the 5 bit Baudot code designed for early telecommunications, in which case I'm afraid you'd have to blame the French.