Did you ask the photographer for their permission to use the photograph? If not, it would be more appropriate to offer just a link to it so that there is no doubt whose work it is.

When I submit pictures i do so at 300ppi and a print size as appropriate - either A4 or A3 depending on what it is.

The same applies to printing at home.

If I make a picture in Photoshop I make a printable copy at A3 and 300ppi. All these are saved as TIFFs.

If i want a pic for EPZ then I create a JPEG of 1000 pixels wide and 72ppi from the saved TIFF.

Surely you're still meaning ppi here, which should be at 300ppi for submission purposes, but also for printing at home.

dpi relates to the printer settings.

Although used interchangeably much of the time, there is a difference between the ppi (pixels per inch) of the image in the computer and the dpi (dots per inch) of, say, an inkjet printer image.

As stated, 72ppi out of the camera produces an immense print size that, if viewed at the appropriate huge distance, would look fine. However, for normal sizes of print an image is interpolated in Photoshop to give the required size at 300ppi. There is no advantage in producing a 600ppi image as the eye cannot tell the difference. A 150ppi image shows on close inspection to be definitely inferior.

Now the printer puts down dots of ink per inch. If it put down 300dpi then every pixel would be represented by a dot of ink, which would be a very poor result indeed. I use 2880dpi, and hence every pixel is reproduced more accurately and the image quality is much improved. This applies to inkjet printers, laser printers and others may be a different matter again.

It's worth noting that Epson printers print at 720dpi by default - for the best results, this should be changed and a Custom setting made for Photo printing.

When you do decide to upgrade to the K10D it should be a very smooth process as most of the design is the same. A very strong plus point for Pentax is the consistency of the design.

Equally well, most of the functions chosen apply to all the Pentax DSLRs.

I guess it shows that the K10D can be any sort of camera you want it to be.
So it should suit all sorts of different photographers.

Lock AF to AE.
Front e-dial set to exposure compensation when in Aperture priority.
Centre spot focusing.
Matrix metering.
JPEG highest quality setting at 10.2MP
ISO 200
AWB

Everything has a downside, but that's progress! The K10D will be compatible with all modern studio flash and you can make it compatible with anything by using an Infra Red trigger. This avoids the issue of trigger voltage altogether.

If you have a suitable meter you can measure the trigger voltage across the hotshoe contacts on the flashgun. We were measuring some the other day at ADAPS and apparently identical guns gave readings of less than 10V and more than 220V, so outward appearances are not reliable.

Be cautious....

I would have thought that firmware from a source that could be absolutely anyone anywhere would not be a wonderful thing to install in my new camera....

You might think I'm being over-cautious, but the whole thing could go pear shaped and there I would be with a brand new ruined piece of kit.

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