Well the 22 bit A/D converter is there and a range of very high quality primes are too.

I wonder which lens spec in particular you need to tip the balance?

IR Triggers are the answer to many of the problems with studio flash. Reliable, convenient and no wires to trip over.

But it does work and produces excellent results in manual setting. Apertures as small as f32 may be necessary for very close work.

The only thing I would add to that is that because of the higher pixel count I have found that I prefer to increase the amount of USM (Unsharp Mask) for the K10D from the 50% I used before yo maybe 100%. I also slightly increase the radius of the effect. The logic for this is that a radius of say 3 pixelswould be a much smaller dimension on the print so a slight increase means the effect can be seen.

It did the trick in giving me the sort of image I wanted. Has anyone else made similar adjustments to their procedures?

This particular article is pretty much over the top IMHO. It gives the impression that RAW acpture is vastly superior to JPEG, and that really isn't true. There are potential advantages, although I see very few images where those advantages are really demonstrated. And I see a lot of images and judge a lot of images in competitions.

My feeling is that JPEG is perfectly satisfactory and certainly far more convenient and also presents fewer compatibility issues with programs both current and for the future.

If you are not making images larger than A3 and if you are happy that you can expose accurately then my opinion is that the advantages of RAW are minimal.

There are many on these forums who will disagree with what I am saying, so all you can do is listen to what everyone says, try it for yourself and see how it relates to the work that you do.

Very ingenious - an excellent idea.

Well I did, but not the second time I came to the thread!

In those circumstances I would use the highest shutter speed possible and probably (in the absence of a faster lens) up the ISO value to achieve that. Even on a tripod shake can occur, so maybe an even sturdier tripod as well?

To follow up on SR, in the absence of the sort of shake it expects the system tries to find it and compensate for it, causing a loop of spurious movement instead. SR is for hand held shots. It also does nothing for subject movement....

I suggest that you use the 2 secind self timer setting. This locks up the mirror and releases the shutter with virtually no vibration at all.

If you were using a tripod, then SR should be switched off.

Do you use an Epson printer?

Select Properties for your printer.
In Mode go to Custom>Advanced
In Colour Management select the first option Colour Controls and several sliders appear that enable you to adjust the colours. Also on this box select a higher dpi setting than the default - I use 2880dpi.
If you are happy with the results click save settings, give the profile you have created a name and click save.
Now whenever you want to use this profile you simply select Custom Settings on the first page and select the option you want.

You can create lots of different profiles for different purposes. I have "Monochrome" as one and "Photo printing" for colour.