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An All Risks extension to your Home Contents insurance can be very cost effective.

Good choice, hope you have a great time with your new camera!

I thought you could delete your own posts, but that may not be the case. In any event, I would eventually see and delete any obvious duplicated posts. It helps to keep things tidy!

You can delete your message by clicking on the cross top right of the message. I've done it for you.

The critical limiting factor is to be able to achieve a resolution on the print of about 4 lpmm. This equates very nicely to the resolution you can get if you enlarge a 35mm negative to 16" x 12", which means that smaller prints than that can be very comfortably achieved.

From a practical viewpoint this can be achieved with a 6MP chip. 10MP enhnaces the ability to view large prints from unusually close distances or to crop.

As stated, there is an optimum distance to view a print from depending on its size.

No, if you want to you can just open the file and save it as whatever you want.

Be aware that some RAW converters will automatically apply some adjustments unless you tell then not to.

The theory goes that the RAW data is not processed by the camera but is then processed by more powerful and sphisticated software on the computer. The aim is better quality.

Once it is processed it needs to be saved in a format useable by Photoshop and similar programs.

The basic rule for best quality is to save in a lossless format and generally this means TIFF. Now JPEG is a "lossy" format that compresses information, so this should be reserved for purposes where it has to be used, such as saving an image for web use.

Some people shoot RAW, some shoot JPEG and we can look at their work and see if any difference shows. In the case of shooting JPEG then never save the JPEG again as a JPEG after it has been opened, always save as a TIFF. Except as noted for web.

Saving a JPEG as a JPEG and continuously doing so will keep re-compressing a compressed file and data will be lost, eventually showing as unwanted artifacts.

Personally I don't like monopods as I find they waver all over the place and I can generally get better results from fast lenses, increased ISO and SR.

I do have a walking pole that doubles as a monopod, but I rarely put the camera on it.

I'd go along with that. If the shop put in the effort they deserve the sale if at all possible. Negotiation is the way to go and more often than not a compromise can be reached.

I have to admit though that recently buying a 43mm Limited for just £254 from Amazon was too good to miss. I see the price has now gone back up to more expected levels. I would pay a little extra to buy from my usual sources because that's the way to build up a longer term relationship that benefits both sides.

Where there is no on-going relationship then that's a different matter, so most of my CD/Book purchases are Internet sourced.