A good set, from one of our favourite locations.

Maybe there comes a time as well to think "life's too short", so if we can afford a nice new K-1 then we might as well enjoy it. Armed with a shiny new bit of kit, fully motivated to get out there and shoot some images, then buying a new camera can improve our photography. For a while anyway.

The EPZ K-1 review was done by Josh this time and it was quicker than sending it to me. I did the lenses in the usual way. I know people are thinking they are rebadged Tamrons, but whatever the sourcing they are lovely lenses. The 28-105mm is no "kit lens" either, it's a great lens in its own right.

It's all good and Pentax have hit the spot with their first FF camera. OK, second if you count the MZ-D......

I presumed he meant 'psd' - Photoshop format.

How do you save your files? Save for Web strips out the EXIF info, so Save As may be the better option.

If all else fails, it is possible to edit some of the EXIF info after you have uploaded to the Gallery.

Eventually I will get an original as it has the proper aperture control and the built in shutter. The simple third party ones do the basic job just fine.

Can't actually see the images Pete, you'd need to change the privacy settings or send out a Friends request.

Another thought. If using AF to focus on a point, use centre point only. Maybe your camera is choosing different points every time it focuses?

Firstly, a black speck would not normally show on images. It would have to be huge to make any difference. Black is good because it won't cause flare spots. However, a large speck isn't what we'd expect to find in a new lens.

I think we need to look at technique here, as I'm a bit baffled as to why we would use MF and then switch to AF to confirm it. Might as well use AF and then lock it in with a half press on the shutter release. As for shifting focus, many lenses might shift a bit at different apertures and zoom settings, but an average correction should be close enough to be satisfactory. Motor sports are not that close that major errors should occur. Your actual selection of the point you are focusing on might have more relevance.

It's difficult to be totally sure without being there, but I'd start with basics first. Try using AF on some general subjects, maybe in the local park, and then see if they are sharp. If not, something is seriously amiss. Don't forget to watch the shutter speed is fast enough as well and make use of SR if appropriate. SR may not be appropriate for motorsport as it takes time to lock on, which will delay the focus on rapidly moving objects.

Hope some of the above helps you to start the process of narrowing this down.

Probably there have been such items. Why not ask Chris at SRS what he has?

Failing that, I'm sure you could get one made.