There's never any resolution to this subject because both approaches are fine in their different ways.

Using each properly takes a bit of skill and knowledge, but then so does every other aspect of photography.

As regards fungus, store the lenses in dry conditions with plenty of air circulation. Any little used lenses I have are stored on an open shelf in a dry, centrally heated room.

The colours of these look much better.

The setting you want is Custom Setting 12 WB Adjustable Range. Set it to Fixed.

You have opted in the images to go close and isolate individual floowers, a good approach. There are a few details though that may help in improving the shots.

The first shot, and indeed the others, I find to be over-bright. In No 1 the yellow is burning out and detail is lost, plus a random light stalk in the background distracts. However, the background is darker than the subject, which is good. It projects the subject forwards to grab our attention.

No 2 and 3 reverse this and the background is too bright, giving that over-exposed bright shade of green that is a bit garish. Choosing the time and type of lighting helps here. Bright overcast days are much better than bright sunny ones. The light is more translucent and suits flower photography much better.

Composition-wise No 3 is the strondgest as No 2 has DOF problems and the flower is cut off. No 3 still suffers from being over bright but the content is there and it's well thought out.

My advice would be choose a cloudy or even rainy day, tone down the contrast and saturation to give more natural colours, always use a tripod and select the background as much as the flower itself.

Hope that helps.

First set the ISO you want, not Auto ISO. The make sure the menu for memorising settings has ISO ticked. Otherwise, every time you switch the camera off and on again it will revert to the default setting.

Looking good, it will be fascinating to see how this is accepted and how long it takes to get to the UK.

If it goes well, this could lead to many other exciting things from Pentax.

Nobody is saying it must be true, RR, but it is interesting.

How did that happen?

If something goes wrong I don't really care about finding someone to make them responsible, I just want a solution, quickly and efficiently.

Apportioning blame wastes time and energy IMHO.

I wonder, are we aware of any rogue iPhone Apps slipping through? Or is the system working very nicely?

The Pentax Lenses and Accessories booklets contain this information. There are 10 di9fferent screens for MF use, but currently only 3 are needed for the AF cameras.

Quite a few of the differences for the MF screens relate to split images not working with telephoto lenses and microprism angles being different for ultra-wide aperture lenses such as the 50mm f1.2

A plain screen works with everything. As I never liked using the split image or microprism focusing aids, I've never missed them. They don't always agree on the point of focus either...

Is either the K20D or K7 actually up for sale?