But we can't assume that.

I wear glasses and don't have a problem, but it really depends very much on centering the eye in the viewfinder. Then press up against the camera. It is possible to shield the top of the eyepiece with a hand and that may help.

If you have varifocal glasses that is probably the cause of the problem. Single vision glasses are really essential IMHO.

Quality, traditional materials, hand made. Inside, the padded dividers are vert high tech and thick. They really do absorb shock and protect the contents - most other bags are nowhere near as good in this respect. Zips are heavy duty, seams are double stitched, fitments are solid brass and leather, and the bag material is waterproof.

Horizontally running rubberised silk shutters are most likely to be out, such as the one in the MX. There was some evidence that they were initially calibrated to 1/1250sec so that they would naturally slow to 1/1000sec or thereabouts. It is essential to store these shutters in the uncocked state, otherwise they will slow quite quickly. Unfortunately with the age of the cameras now, some may have been left cocked for decades before we start to use them again.

The ME Super was the first electronic shutter camera to amaze testers. It delivered 0.5ms, or 1/2000sec, quite routinely and reliably. Amazing in its day. Having said that, the one Photo Technique got for test only managed about 1/500sec at the top speed, so clearly was badly adjusted or damaged in some way.

I don't want to lock the thread, but any more off topic posts will be removed.

It would have been simpler just to ask for the title to be ammended. Please bear it in mind for next time.

Time to call a halt now as this has gone way off topic.

It's possible because not all 283s are the same. I have measured two identical looking samples, one of which had a trigger voltage of under 20V but the other was around 290V. Obviously over the years the design has evolved.

I wouldn't risk it and would stick to modern flashguns, even though it may be OK if it's not you'll potentially fry the camera's electronics.

Film suffers from reciprocity failure. An indicated exposure in excess of 1 second may have to be much. much more, unfortunately depending on the film used.

I would try metered exposure, then +1 and +2 stops. Also, if using slide film, bear in m ind if you want the final image to look dark or not. If not, it will be just like a shot in daylight.

We need to realise that an organisation like eBay is very, very big. There will be a percentage of people who have unhappy stories, and some of those may be justified and some may be because sometimes people are awkward and won't do things the proper way.

Personal experiences are the ones that count and in several years of eBay dealing I have, so far, had no problems. The same goes for PayPal and Amazon, two other very large organisations.

It is, hoever, vital to follow their procedures properly.