ND 10 Filter

Anyone else use one of these? If so what have you found to be the most effective applications for it?

I bought a B&W one last week and I managed to get this shot with a 62 second exposure. I'm really pleased with the way it not only smooths out the water ripples, but also allows a still reflection in the water and captures cloud movement.

---

I believe Mark is the man to talk to

---

Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!

Dunno, I've had a Lee ND10 Big Stopper on order with WarehouseExpress for several weeks. Its back-ordered with a 20 week delivery.

---

Peter E Smith

My flickr Photostream

We had a wee chat via Flickr earlier

They are quite good fun. B&W is cheaper and easier to get than the Lee. Lee look a wonderful system for uwa but a tad expensive, especially if you are prone to falling off the edge of crags.

---

My Pics

I have the B&W 10 stop but I've only used it a couple of times so far - I think that they're great for coastal shots, especially if you like the "misty" effect than seems popular now.

I'm not criticising your shot, I like it, the 10stop creates a nice sky but the problem with reflections is that, if conditions are still, the long exposure actually blurs it slightly so they end up not quite as clear as they could be - it's the main reason I don't use it in this situation. If the lake is a little "choppy" though it's a great way of flattening things out.

Thanks for posting - you've reminded me I really should use it more!!

Simon

---

My website http://www.landscapephotographyuk.com

My Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/landscapephotographyuk

Find me on Google+ link

Thanks for your help.
Tim, I've had a chat with Mark and he was really helpfull and gave lots of pointers on Flickr.

Simon, thanks I've taken that on board.

I have another question I would like to throw up = I am taking next week shooting the coastline around Whitby and I am taking my K10 and ME Super.
My plan is to get a good exposed shot on the K10 with the 10 stop ND, then duplicate the settings with the ME Super - in theory most of my film shots will then be good.
The question is - will the exposure lengths be the same for digital as for film?

---

Should be about the same, but that assumes that your ME Super shutter speeds are still accurate. Also, as the response curves are different for digital and film you might not get exactly the same density.

I would do some calibration shots before you go to see what you need to adjust to get the result you are looking for.

---

Best regards, John

Thanks John, I will be doing Bulb exposures withg a stop watch so shutter speeds on the ME Super won't be an issue.
I don't have any time now to shoot off a roll and get it developed and assessed, it was a last minute idea.
Do you think the safest way would be to bracket above and below?

---

Reciprocity failure is something else that I have read about but have no knowledge of. This made me ask the question about film vs. digital exposure times as I read this may only affect film.

---

Film suffers from reciprocity failure. An indicated exposure in excess of 1 second may have to be much. much more, unfortunately depending on the film used.

I would try metered exposure, then +1 and +2 stops. Also, if using slide film, bear in m ind if you want the final image to look dark or not. If not, it will be just like a shot in daylight.

---

Best regards, John

Thanks John. I will be using 100 asa bw film or fp4 125 asa.

---

If you go to the Ilford website, you cab download the specsheet for FP4. Page 2 gives the exposure compensation factors for times of longer than 1/2 sec. For instance if the measured time is 20 secs then you need to expose for 80 secs!

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2010712125850702.pdf

Kim

That's really interesting, thanks Kim.

---

Fuji do similar spec sheets on their site which also give similar info

Kim