All Forum Comments
It doesn't make sense for them to compete with themselves. My guess would be that general consumer cameras would be branded Pentax and higher end ones (along the lines of the GR1/GR1D etc.) would be Ricoh. Is there room for more like the Fuji X10, X100, XPro1?
Comment by johnha posted on Will Ricoh-branded cameras disappear in 2013 at 17/05/2012 - 21:16
There was me thinking it was worthless, then I found this link. I guess I could also sell the PC socket cover, battery cover and perhaps the back too (strap lugs anybody?)...
Comment by johnha posted on Super-A seems to have stopped working at 17/05/2012 - 21:08
Thanks for all replies, I've gone for it.
Just out of interest, a lot of the non-genuine ones on ebay are shown with some kind of metal plate (see link) any idea what the plate is for?
Just out of interest, a lot of the non-genuine ones on ebay are shown with some kind of metal plate (see link) any idea what the plate is for?
Comment by johnha posted on Genuine M42 adapter at 16/05/2012 - 22:58
And next week, un-exploded bomb disposal...
Anybody know how to get into a Super-Tak 55 f/2 which won't stop down at all?
Anybody know how to get into a Super-Tak 55 f/2 which won't stop down at all?
Comment by johnha posted on M42 Fujinon Lens at 16/05/2012 - 21:10
I tried it with an astronomical telescope (4.5" newtonian reflector). My biggest problem was getting a secure connection on the eyepiece with the camera. Most important tip is not to drop the camera (or knock the scope over) both of which are easier than you think.
Comment by johnha posted on digiscoping - anyone do it here? at 16/05/2012 - 21:00
Hi Dave,
There's a manual here link which states the LEDs will start to flicker before the batteries die. It gives battery life from 'a few months' to a year.
I've only replaced a hand full of batteries over the years, I think most of mine have discharged on their own rather than being consumed by the camera electronics.
John.
There's a manual here link which states the LEDs will start to flicker before the batteries die. It gives battery life from 'a few months' to a year.
I've only replaced a hand full of batteries over the years, I think most of mine have discharged on their own rather than being consumed by the camera electronics.
John.
Comment by johnha posted on Meter on MG - Intermittent over-exposure warning... at 15/05/2012 - 01:07
Thanks John,
Just checked SRS's photo which shows only 'Pentax'.
Just checked SRS's photo which shows only 'Pentax'.
Comment by johnha posted on Genuine M42 adapter at 14/05/2012 - 23:59
I've been offered an M42 adapter which appears to be a genuine Pentax one but it doesn't have 'Asahi' only 'Pentax'. Does this sound right?
Thanks,
John.
Thanks,
John.
Comment by johnha posted on Genuine M42 adapter at 14/05/2012 - 23:51
Patty wrote:
Be careful of other makes as some of the old flashes have a very high operating voltage on the hotshoe contacts and could fry the camera! Or so lots of people have said.Pat
I measured one of my Vivitar 283's at over 270v, no way that's going near a DSLR or even an AF film SLR. I've got red insulation tape on it so I don't mix it up with the other 12v one (externally they're identical).Be careful of other makes as some of the old flashes have a very high operating voltage on the hotshoe contacts and could fry the camera! Or so lots of people have said.Pat
Comment by johnha posted on WTB: Old manual flash at 14/05/2012 - 22:48
The best manual focus grip I've used is one of the Super-A/Program-A/P50 type with the moulded thumb rest on the back (and fabulous with the Motordrive-A). The P30N or T are good cameras and many ways more appealing today than the M series (younger, program mode, AE lock and focussing screens better suited to 35-70/28-80 zoom lenses). DX coding though is a bit of a negative. The P30 only offered program and manual (quite a strange combination).
The MX is really too small for comfort for me, the K1000 is better.
The MX is really too small for comfort for me, the K1000 is better.
