+1

How would you check the focus at infinity?

84 images? Good job it isn't slide film! But all you need is two or three for the job in hand:
1. to determine if there is a front/back focussing issue in the first place.
2. adjust the AF setting to + or - 5 as appropriate to see how close it makes it.
3. having got close, add or take a bit and you should be close enough by now.
BUT - but only for that image in that lighting at that distance. Any other and it could all need doing again. It's highly likely that the adjustment needed at a couple of feet is quite different to that needed at infinity, so only use adjustment when it is necessary.

John K

Yes I agree this time! In my own case I have determined that the 100mm macro used close up is likely to be out and need a +4 adjustment. I can quickly apply that if needed. How the lens performs at infinity I have no idea, it may even front focus and need a negative adjustment, I don't know.

The software itself may well be brilliant but can only give a result for the lenses at the settings the tests are performed. I believe the camera setting is there to help solve specific problems when encountered as one would dial in a filter setting as required. The whole lot can be switched off in one go.

John K

There are several reviews on the web and a respected forum discussion here with some who have tried it:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=71660.0

The thread concludes, "I also use a 100mm macro, most often for macro shots, but sometimes as a mild telephoto. I suppose setting it for macro would really throw it off for greater distances."

That probably says it all.

John K

Come, come. One isn't going to kill the camera by making a slight AF adjustment for one lens. It's hardly dangerous messing, there to help misfocus issues when they arise and can be reset in an instant. Calling it dangerous messing is itself a bold statement.

The comments here about this software and adjustment are getting ludicrous now. So would you recommend the software identified by the OP or not and how useful would the results be on an ongoing basis?

John K

Well you've clearly made up your mind that the way you want to go is with the software package so who is anyone else to say you should not do that?
I'd say to be absolutely certain with the result you'd need to repeat the checks for each lens you have under a range of lighting conditions and apertures and remember to change it each time you take a photograph depending on the lighting conditions and aperture used required by each lens at the time. Personally I'd only change the value if I had a problem and apply a quick fix as required. We're all different, thank goodness!

John K

The event is surely akin to the war weekend events and those who dress up for those must expect to be photographed, or why do it in public. I can see Barrie's point that those who normally attire in Goth clothing might take exception to being photographed without being asked first but the photographer cannot differentiate these folk from the others.

John K

I'm pretty sure different cameras makes use different scales. I doubt there is any standard unit applied to these values so would be very surprised if, say, a Canon +2 setting equals a Nikon +2 setting equals a Pentax + 2 setting. So the values given by the software would not apply to a camera not incorporated into the program's database.

If you have to determine the focus points and input it into the program, you have already done the work and all the program is doing is to use statistical analysis to ascertain the best value which you'd probably already be aware of just by looking at the results you already have. Or in other words, blind you with science!

Just wondering, if the people who think this is a good idea, do you use some scientific method to determine what other values to use for other menu settings, say deciding a filter strength, or do you just look at the images and say that one looks best?

When I started photography, cameras lacked meters to determine exposure and I had to decide if it was dull, sunny, cloudy bright etc. and use my judgement to set the exposure. The film makers kindly incorporated a leaflet in the box to help with this. Then I had to guess how far the subject was away and set that value too. We seemed to manage most of the time. Now apparently, according to this thread, I have to go into a high tech lab with specific software just to setup the camera before I even press the shutter. I thought the manufacturers were supposed to do that! Phew!

John K

Nope :

Not sure what you are getting at here.

John K