That converter will have the same problem; note the base is anodised same as the other one.

Sometimes you are better off not using a converter and cropping.

What aperture and lens did you use for the fly? There's more than one reason why it may not be sharp (the converter could be one of them!)

I was just getting frustrated that you seemed to be ignoring this. I obtained mine in a package with a camera and some lenses so had nothing to loose. I too was sceptical but it worked. It is a Vivitar converter, the same model as yours.
The only other 'solution' would seem to be to return it for a refund. You did pay quite a bit for it so I can see your reluctance to doctor it. If you send it back I'm sure you'll find another one quite a bit cheaper. In fact I'll even consider selling my one if it helps and it won't cost anywhere near what you paid for that one.

Not sure how to say this differently. Yes you are correct, the lens isn't getting an electrical connection through the teleconverter. You have already stated that the lens works fine so cleaning those contacts won't help. But one of those contacts, the earth return is being blocked by the black paint on the converter. The ONLY solution is to do as suggested above, and yes, scraping that anodising off the converter allowed mine to connect and resolve the same problem you are experiencing.
If you try an internet search you will find others who have provided this solution in the past and why I made this drastic (not really) modification to mine.
Why did you ignore the suggested solution given yesterday?

Yes if its a close / macro shot of a bird or animal keeping the focus point central (usually on the subject's eye) and sorting out the composition afterwards makes sense - it would be easy to loose the focus point while recomposing. It depends on the lens whether it would loose focus; some have a curved field, some flat. Can't quite decide which would work better!

So everyone who used an ME, MX, K2, etc did it wrong? Just look at any old camera manual and it shows you how to focus - you had to use a central split-image circle or central microprism, there was no alternative.




Sorry you believe all the images they took are out of focus but most seem fine to me!

It isn't the lens that has the problem (if you read OP's original post he states the lens normally works OK without the TC) it is the converter itself.

Yes, the bottom of the converter, not the lens! (My converter would appear to be the same make/model as yours.)

Check how that contact at about 120 degrees round from the top lines up and see if it corresponds to the section on my converter that I scraped off.

It's probably not getting an earth return. If you scrape of some of the black anodising as in the picture below it should make it work.

Good find. That chart takes you up to the K-5, the K-30 and K-01. The K-3 compatibility is 100% identical to those.