I have used an inexpensive (less than $70 US) LED ring light to do macro work. It has worked well when I shoot my K-5 on a tripod at ISO 1600 stopped down to f8-f11. A quick pass through Lightroom and its denoiser yields excellent IQ at that ISO.

Great shots! I notice that the 1/500 sec. (at ISO 100) shutter speed stopped the props. Wonder if going to IS0 400 and 1/125 sec. would have resulted in more of a realistic propeller blur? On the other hand, if you are shooting with a long lens, 1/125 sec. might introduce camera shake blur. Maybe there's a happy medium here?

Had the same reaction, going to a K-5 from a K20D (and K10D before that). It took a few days to get used to the new placement of the various buttons. But one DOES get used to it. (And I'm a septuagenarian and not supposed to find change easy.)

Just to be contrary about those super-duper-high-capacity cards: How many of us really fill up, say, 16GB cards before we move them to our computers? Suppose you nearly fill up a 256GB card and something happens to it? Are the images recoverable -- and at what cost?

Wouldn't it be smarter to spread one's images among several smaller cards, thereby reducing the chances of something going wrong and rendering ALL of one's images irrecoverable?

I thought about getting a 32GB extra-high-speed card but decided to buy two equivalent 16GBers instead and rotate them in my camera. For insurance on longer trips I carry a couple of old 8 GBers in reserve. Never have needed to use them.

Of course, if one takes a lot of video, my ideas don't hold water.

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Collapsible rubber hoods are useful for pressing the camera up against a window to shoot without getting reflections of objects in the rear. De rigueur for shots from a train window, for example.

Just got the cheap grip for my K-5 and will be watching the parts like a hawk. Thank you for the warning.

I bought a 10-20 last year and my shots are lousy, too. I'm highly interested in this thread.