Help: how to get the best out of Sigma 10-20 4.6
Posted 23/01/2011 - 12:22
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Graham,
Have you got any shots you've taken?
Have you got any shots you've taken?
Posted 23/01/2011 - 12:34
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chrism_scotland wrote:
Graham,
Have you got any shots you've taken?
Graham,
Have you got any shots you've taken?
I must confess that the images I took are so poor I am reluctant to upload them for fear of the question getting diluted into an image critique. What I am looking for is some advice on the best techniques for using this type of lens and what the best settings are. It is such a different type of lens compared to my Pentax 16-45.
Posted 23/01/2011 - 12:39
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I bought a 10-20 last year and my shots are lousy, too. I'm highly interested in this thread.
Posted 23/01/2011 - 12:51 - Helpful Comment
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My one biggest hint: don't use ultra wide angle lenses simply to fit more stuff in - you simply end up getting a shot of everything and nothing. They're at their best when you have something of significant foreground interest, and you need to be not far off touching that to get the best effect. I seem to recall that Ken Rockwell did a reasonable piece on how to get the best out of ultrawide lenses, even though most of his stuff is deeply irritating!
Posted 23/01/2011 - 13:37
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JonSchick wrote:
My one biggest hint: don't use ultra wide angle lenses simply to fit more stuff in - you simply end up getting a shot of everything and nothing. They're at their best when you have something of significant foreground interest, and you need to be not far off touching that to get the best effect. I seem to recall that Ken Rockwell did a reasonable piece on how to get the best out of ultrawide lenses, even though most of his stuff is deeply irritating!
My one biggest hint: don't use ultra wide angle lenses simply to fit more stuff in - you simply end up getting a shot of everything and nothing. They're at their best when you have something of significant foreground interest, and you need to be not far off touching that to get the best effect. I seem to recall that Ken Rockwell did a reasonable piece on how to get the best out of ultrawide lenses, even though most of his stuff is deeply irritating!
I have not encountered Ken Rockwell before, his web site is quite a mine of information though. I will give your suggestion of picking out a significant subject in the foreground a go, if it ever stops raining today.
Posted 23/01/2011 - 14:00 - Helpful Comment
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Live view is helpful for focussing. I find the normal AF with this lens a bit hit and miss.
As Jon says its a good lens for shots with significant foreground interest, or shots taken in confined spaces. My first outing with the lens was in a little rocky valley with a waterfall, with good light, so my first impressions of the lens were good. But I've had experiences similar to yours since then!
As Jon says its a good lens for shots with significant foreground interest, or shots taken in confined spaces. My first outing with the lens was in a little rocky valley with a waterfall, with good light, so my first impressions of the lens were good. But I've had experiences similar to yours since then!
[link=https://500px.com/will_brealey/[/link]
Posted 23/01/2011 - 14:12
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Pentaxophile wrote:
Live view is helpful for focussing. I find the normal AF with this lens a bit hit and miss.
As Jon says its a good lens for shots with significant foreground interest, or shots taken in confined spaces. My first outing with the lens was in a little rocky valley with a waterfall, with good light, so my first impressions of the lens were good. But I've had experiences similar to yours since then!
Live view is helpful for focussing. I find the normal AF with this lens a bit hit and miss.
As Jon says its a good lens for shots with significant foreground interest, or shots taken in confined spaces. My first outing with the lens was in a little rocky valley with a waterfall, with good light, so my first impressions of the lens were good. But I've had experiences similar to yours since then!
A great example of the lenses capability and a nice photo, it has provided me a good starting point to work from, my pending trip to the Lakes should provide me with plenty of subjects of this style.
So what are the best settings for this lens, what F-Stop provides the sharpest results?
Posted 23/01/2011 - 14:19 - Helpful Comment
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My 10-20 is currently one of my favourite lenses, though I've not had it long I've been tremendously satisfied with the shots I've taken with it.
I've pretty much always used F13 (it's sweet spot) and the advice I've read here already (not an excuse to try and pack in EVERYTHING - still consider composition as you usually would) is great advice.
I also find shots converted to black and white seem to be more vibrant than I tend to get with other lenses.
I've pretty much always used F13 (it's sweet spot) and the advice I've read here already (not an excuse to try and pack in EVERYTHING - still consider composition as you usually would) is great advice.
I also find shots converted to black and white seem to be more vibrant than I tend to get with other lenses.
Posted 23/01/2011 - 14:20 - Helpful Comment
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Probably around f8 to f16, to get a reasonable depth of field. Hyperfocal technique would probably help - I don't truly understand hyperfocal distance but I think on the shot above I focussed in front of the rock in the middle distance in order to get the background and the foreground rock in focus. Perhaps someone can explain hyperfocal technique a bit more scientifically lol!
[link=https://500px.com/will_brealey/[/link]
Posted 23/01/2011 - 14:33 - Helpful Comment
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Hyperfocal distance can be used very effectively with this rule of thumb:
Set a small aperture and focus on a point one third of the way into the scene. This will maximise DOF.
Set a small aperture and focus on a point one third of the way into the scene. This will maximise DOF.
Best regards, John
Posted 23/01/2011 - 14:46
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I love this lens, it's extreme angle's really appeal to me. For architecture and landscape's it's invaluable. As mentioned before in confined spaces it's unbeatable, see examples.
Monday Morning Blues.
Breakfast Time.
Last of the Christmas Cheer.
Monday Morning Blues.
Breakfast Time.
Last of the Christmas Cheer.
Posted 23/01/2011 - 14:47 - Helpful Comment
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And of course the most important thing you need to get the best out of any lnes, imagination. Now that don't come easy.
Posted 23/01/2011 - 14:52 - Helpful Comment
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If it's on a K-7 try to avoid shutter speeds around 1/100th sec.
Use 1/60th with SR on or try 1/250th with SR on and off.
The K-7 suffers from shutter-induced blur around 1/100th sec.
Surprised no one else has mentioned this. See this
Use 1/60th with SR on or try 1/250th with SR on and off.
The K-7 suffers from shutter-induced blur around 1/100th sec.
Surprised no one else has mentioned this. See this
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 23/01/2011 - 15:32 - Helpful Comment
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Quote:
My one biggest hint: don't use ultra wide angle lenses simply to fit more stuff in - you simply end up getting a shot of everything and nothing. They're at their best when you have something of significant foreground interest, and you need to be not far off touching that to get the best effect.
My one biggest hint: don't use ultra wide angle lenses simply to fit more stuff in - you simply end up getting a shot of everything and nothing. They're at their best when you have something of significant foreground interest, and you need to be not far off touching that to get the best effect.
Excellent advice - I have a Tamron 10-24 and am also on the early bit of the ultrawide learning curve. I found that it doesn't work how I thought it would - for shooting wide open landscapes I find I'm always at the long end, but it works really at the wider end for either shooting in confined spaces or up close against something, showing lots of the background.
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