hefty1

Joined: 28th June 2007

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hefty1
I think you'll find the camera will always set the highest ISO that you'll allow unless you set it manually - the advantage of ISO400 for flash shots is a lower discharge from your flash unit meaning a quicker recharge time before you're able to take the next shot. Still, ISO400 on a K10D looks quite acceptable in my opinion...

Comment by hefty1 posted on ISO setting during Flash... at 11/03/2008 - 13:55

hefty1
I can only speak from my own experience and I found that my K10D was back focussing with ALL my lenses, now it has been adjusted all my lenses focus perfectly. The problem will always appear more pronounced with fast lenses as they have a much narrower depth-of-field, this doesn't mean that your slower lenses aren't back-focussing - just that you're less likely to notice it in day-to-day use.

Test all your lenses against the focus chart, and if there is a problem with only one of them then I would suggest that the problem lies with the lens itself and you should return it under warranty if possible.

Once you have calibrated your sensor, if you do not like the results you are getting then it is simple to reset everything back to the factory settings so you have nothing to lose and everything to gain!

Comment by hefty1 posted on 16-50 problem ? at 28/03/2008 - 11:15

hefty1
First of all, download the focus test chart from www.focustestchart.com/chart.html and follow the instructions to find out if your camera actually has a FF/BF issue (not all do).

If it does have a problem then install the hacked version of firmware 1.10 over the top of your version 1.30 (http://www.vietzon.com/red/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=33).

Now install the real 1.10 over the hacked version (still available from: http://www.pentax.ca/digital/digital_slr/k10d/firmware_110.php)

Switch on your camera while pressing "Play" and "OK".

Press "Fn->Fn->Info->Menu" within 5 seconds and change DEBUG MODE from <DIS> to <EN>.

Press OK.

Press Menu, then come along to "Set-up" and press ^up^ on the D-pad. You'll see "AF test" (select it) and you want to change the slider at the bottom of that page (positive correction for BF, negative for FF). Keep tweaking/shooting/tweaking until you get the right shot with the test chart.

When you've done exit Debug mode by switching off and on while pressing "Play" and "OK" and quickly pressing "Fn->Fn->Info->Menu" again. Change Debug Mode from <EN> to <DIS>.

You can now put version 1.30 back and keep the changes that you have made.

This is all entirely at your own risk and neither I nor anybody else will take responsibility for your actions! Make sure you use fully charged batteries or you'll ruin the camera and end up with a very expensive paper-weight.

Good luck!

Comment by hefty1 posted on 16-50 problem ? at 20/03/2008 - 01:05

hefty1
Don't read too much into the first example, at really wide apertures then lighting does play a role and tungsten seems to exaggerate any problems. The "proper" tests I did before and during adjustment were done under natural light at exactly 45 degrees and the back focus - while still clearly evident - wasn't nearly so pronounced. Strangely enough though, it now seems to work just fine wide open under tungsten lighting too so I'm a very happy bunny!

Comment by hefty1 posted on 16-50 problem ? at 17/03/2008 - 18:31

hefty1
Quote:
When you do the adjustment, the figure you alter is in tens of microns. I took this to be moving the sensor forwards or backwards by this tiny, but obviously significant, amount.
Thanks for that Dan! I knew I was moving the sensor back-and-forth by incredibly small amounts but I couldn't figure out what the units were - now I know.

And yes, mine only required a movement of 30 microns but the difference in both MF and AF accuracy is night and day. These show the test charts taken with the FA43 @ f1.9 (both AF aimed at the black line; the second was taken at exactly 45 degrees in daylight - the first was just to confirm suspicions and was taken under tungsten the previous night minutes before I downloaded the firmware hack). It's safe to say I was having a bit of a back-focus problem there! Not any more though...

BEFORE ADJUST:
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AFTER ADJUST:
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Comment by hefty1 posted on 16-50 problem ? at 17/03/2008 - 16:55

hefty1
I think what Tyr's saying is that he had the same problem as me, ie when something looked to be pin-sharp in the viewfinder it was out of focus on the sensor. I too used the firmware hack (in conjunction with the calibration chart) and find it's made a world of difference - what I see in the viewfinder is now what the sensor sees too.

The hack won't alter the viewfinder in any way, just bring the sensor into line with it.

Comment by hefty1 posted on 16-50 problem ? at 17/03/2008 - 14:54

hefty1
Excellent judging Tony and I'm very pleased with my commended!

Congratulations to all entrants and especially to ikillrockandroll - a worthy winner. Look forward to seeing what topic you come up with for next week...

Comment by hefty1 posted on Weekly Competition #36 - "Spring" at 17/03/2008 - 10:17

hefty1
...time to get my dahlias planted

Comment Image


K10D / FA43 / f2.8 / 1-125sec / ISO100

Comment by hefty1 posted on Weekly Competition #36 - "Spring" at 16/03/2008 - 22:40

hefty1
I like the first one best, the guy looks like he's dreaming of holidays and lottery wins rather than thinking of his destination - just like passengers everywhere really!

Comment by hefty1 posted on Travelers at 10/03/2008 - 10:19

hefty1
All of them are simply stunning! The colours look quite spectacular and I'd be hard pressed to pick a favourite between numbers 6, 7 and 8.

Comment by hefty1 posted on Sky's the limit at 09/03/2008 - 16:03

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