hefty1

Joined: 28th June 2007

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hefty1
I did try them last year for some 35mm D&P but found they weren't as good as SnappySnaps so I haven't been back. Of course printing from digital is an entirely different kettle of fish so don't forget to report back on your findings

Comment by hefty1 posted on Has anyone used DSCL (Fujifilm) on-line printing at 07/10/2009 - 18:01

hefty1
Quick update: Just added a Zeiss Sonnar 135mm in M42 mount to the above listings in case anyone's looking for one

Comment by hefty1 posted on Pentax ME F and M 50/2 on eBay at 07/10/2009 - 16:34

hefty1
womble wrote:
hefty1 wrote:
...along with the excellent Pentax DA12-24 f/4
Lovely lens although I find it better for interiors (spirit level a must!) and great on site (no need to climb right to the top of a ladder...) rather than landscapes. Landscapes tend to turn into all foreground and sky if you are not very careful (although Matt has some good tips about getting very low or high with this lens). I find myself taking more landscape shots with the 50-135mm than the 12-24mm.

K.
I agree with this. My 12-24 is fantastic for interiors, architecture and (at the 24mm end) street shooting. For landscape work I prefer something longer to give a more natural perspective - I tended to use the FA43 for most (nearly all) my landscape shots but recently I've been using the DA35 with great success. I'd suggest your 28mm + 50mm lenses would probably fit the bill better than either the DA14 or Sigma 10-20.

Comment by hefty1 posted on Next lens advice.. at 07/10/2009 - 15:52

hefty1
womble wrote:
None will give you "much better shots", only you can do that.
So true!

Comment by hefty1 posted on Next lens advice.. at 07/10/2009 - 15:21

hefty1
It might be helpful to know which lenses you already own as you want to avoid too many overlaps if possible. All three of the lenses you have mentioned have their fans on here (along with the excellent Pentax DA12-24 f/4) so I'm sure many will be happy to give you their own personal opinions on which is best for you.

Comment by hefty1 posted on Next lens advice.. at 07/10/2009 - 15:20

hefty1
In my experience, yes.

For macro work using tubes and bellows I find the slower (f/2.8 - f/4) Tessar-type lenses work the best as they have fewer elements and a very flat plane of focus (in other words the corners, edges and centre all reach their optimum "sharpness" at around the same time, whereas something like an f/1.4 will get sharp in the centre quickly but it takes a much smaller aperture before the corners catch up). Having a flat field is a lot more noticeable in macro work than it is in general photography.

My personal favourites are all M42 lenses, however, if you want to stick with K-mount then the M50/2 is quite a nice compromise and very cheap! I just happen to have one on eBay at the moment (shameless plug): link

Comment by hefty1 posted on macro lens 5omm prime or 35-70 zoom at 07/10/2009 - 15:10

hefty1
The Pentax K mount has a registration distance of 45.46mm. To retain infinity focus you need to use a lens with the same or greater distance. The Pentax 645 system has a registration distance of 70.87mm, so even if the lenses could be mounted inside the 645D's throat (which I doubt as lenses tend to be quite a bit wider than their mounts alone) that's still a loooooooong way back!

Nice idea Don but I think the laws of physics are against you on this one.

Comment by hefty1 posted on 645D aimed for Spring 2010 at 06/10/2009 - 23:05

hefty1
akira181 wrote:
I got the body, 18-55 WR Lense, 8gb transcend memory card, a case, screen protector, and a beach mat freebie for around 850 pounds. Is that a good deal or did I get ripped?
The same kit here would cost at least £150 more so I'd say that was a very good deal indeed

One more essential I'd add would be a spare battery, other than that you seem very well sorted.

Comment by hefty1 posted on Going on vacation and need advice on lenses at 06/10/2009 - 18:09

hefty1
Never mind Vic, if you don't ask you don't know

I just arrived there by a process of trial and error. I found the colours using that setting were pretty close to using regular daylight film, which was what I was after.

There's no wrong or right way, I just dislike the auto setting as it continually adjusts itself. I don't like the hues shifting from shot-to-shot just because I've happened to move from sunshine to shade (or whatever) - I prefer a consistent colour cast even if it's technically "wrong" sometimes.

Comment by hefty1 posted on How to use the Colour Balance control on a DSLR at 06/10/2009 - 17:59

hefty1
vic cross wrote:
Question! Where or What is the "DAYLIGHT" setting in the WB setting prog. (K10 & K7)
I can find AWB, Sun, Shade, Cloud, etc. etc. but no "DAYLIGHT".
CHEERS Vic.
The little Sun icon represents Daylight - usually the second option down after Auto.

Comment by hefty1 posted on How to use the Colour Balance control on a DSLR at 06/10/2009 - 15:15

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