Steve, As you say getting there, it's the part after this that I found almost impossible to do. And for the amount of work involved, with lots of slides, it's a no-go option.

Stefan, I used a daylight fluorescent lamp and set the camera to the same, I played with the colour temps in Adobe Raw.

John, what I don't understand is if there is software written for scanners to do the conversion correctly why has it not been done for the photo editing programs, surely the same principals apply.

Greg

Stefan, I agree, tungsten did give the best colour but it's still way out. I tried a full range of custom colour temperatures but I could not get rid of the orange colour cast.

Graham, I see that there is an old Canon FS-4000 for sale in our local classifieds for about UKP 75.00 but it is old and I wonder if the software is XP compatible.

Thanks, Greg

Thanks,
Having done a lot more searching and reading your link I can see that photographing all my negatives will be a waste of time, almost worse than scanning on a flat bed, the manual tweaking involved is not acceptable. Converting them to black and white is maybe just OK but still means processing each pic individually.

So that means I must get a film scanner, which is a good one at a reasonable price, I know search the archives but it will be quicker if you tell me here

Greg

Hi,
I've taken some photos of colour negatives (C41) with my K200D thinking that it would be easy to convert them to positives in Elements 6. Well I was wrong I then installed Gimp hoping it would be able to do the conversion, wrong again. The original photo has an orange colour cast which converts to a blue cast on “Inverting”. I’ve tried manipulating the picture in RAW and can get closer to the correct colours but not nearly correct and all my attempts have a hazy appearance. If I use my Canon 8400F scanner they come out correctly but the scanning process takes ages compared to photographing the negative.

I’m hoping that there is a Plug-in or Add-on for Gimp or Elements 6 which will do the job but I’ve not yet found one.

I’m at my wits end and need help.

Greg

The one price is in US$ and the other price in Aus $

Greg

The 1.7 AF converter has a screw drive driven lens which focuses in exactly the same way as a F or FA lens, however it has a very limited focusing range and one has to pre focus the manual lens and then let the AF 1.7 do the final close focus. It suffers from the normal low light focusing problem and you have to use a reasonably fast lens. I find it works quite well and optically it's very good.

Greg

The matching works very well, you end up with stickers all over the batteries with numbers and codes so that you can keep them in matched sets. THEN at some time you snatch a battery from a set in a panic situation and undo all your good work.
Greg

You people are too quick for me, there I was examining the photo in detail for movement, found the one blurred head, came back to post and you've moved on way beyond the point where my comment would have been pertinent.

I have really appreciated the feedback.

Greg
Always on a learning curve

Thanks Kris,

That video clarified everything for me and of course started my mind off on a whole new track about making a view camera.

I presume the 35mm equivalent will be a Lensbaby, I will do some reading up as this technique must be very useful in landscape photography.

Greg

I have used this link Maha charger for the past two years on my Uniross Hibrios, bought it direct from Maha. What I like about it is that there is no guessing the batteries condition, you have all the status info you need. I've used the same LSD batteries for two years and they still recharge to within 95% of their stated capacity.

Greg