gregmoll

Joined: 10th July 2009

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gregmoll
Ken, I agree, will shoot from much lower down next time but I do want to see the surface of the water.

And Tim for you I'll float a rubber duck in the centre of the bath and run some focus tests on it. Moving away is not an option, I'm already wasting too many pixels having to cater for not knowing exactly where the bird will be in the photo. All of the posted pictures are crops.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on Bird bath pics at 25/01/2010 - 19:26

gregmoll
Focusing was the main reason I ran this test. I locked the focus on the far edge of the birdbath thinking that would be the best compromise as any bird perched there would be facing the camera. I did not allow auto focus for two reasons, the noise would frighten the birds and secondly I had no way of seeing which focus point had been selected.

The camera was set to manual and f16 to try and get some DOF, the flash was in P-TTL mode. In retrospect I should have locked focus on the centre of the bath, as it appears that the front edge of the DOF was on the far edge of the bath.

There's always tomorrow to try it again.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on Bird bath pics at 25/01/2010 - 12:36

gregmoll
Hi,
I wanted to practice setting up the camera and flash for remote shooting using the radio shutter release. The only 200mm lens I have that will work with P-TTL flash was an old F70-200 lens I first got with my SFXn.

Here are some of the more amusing results I got, not the best.

Drying off.
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Checking that he washes behind his ears.
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Washing her armpits.
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Too big to fit in the frame.
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Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on Bird bath pics at 24/01/2010 - 23:01

gregmoll
Thank goodness not only Clarky, I think we in the colonies have it good. Same story here about peering at bad photos looking for lenses. I've just bought a FA 80-320 for UKP 48.00.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on New uses for old lenses at 23/01/2010 - 22:02

gregmoll
A stupid question but if I don't ask e.t.c

Is a lens coat used for protecting the lens from bumps and rain or is it for camouflage.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on Pentax FA* 600/4 ED [IF] at 22/01/2010 - 18:04

gregmoll
Not sure exactly what you want to achieve with the lights but if it's reach that you need then think of using a Better Beamer with the flash mounted on the camera, it has a narrow beam so can only be used with telephoto lenses.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on Elinchrom / Bowens 200-400W/s heads at 21/01/2010 - 05:21

gregmoll
I have now tested isopropyl alcohol, 90%, using a dampened micro fibre cloth and giving the negatives a quick wipe down, it removes all the dust and fluff and dries instantly without any effect, that I can see, on the negative. I must still find a badly marked one and try it using ear buds to remove bad spots and stains.

Thanks for all the advice.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on Cleaning Negatives at 19/01/2010 - 03:40

gregmoll
Thanks, I learnt about pre-focusing the hard way, about 20 years ago I ordered a tele-converter from Hong Kong to use with my SFXn body. When it arrived they had supplied a 1.7AF converter and I could never understand why it did not focus and sold it in disgust for peanuts, "I know stupid"

I use manual mode and the Green button to set exposure. K200D.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on Testing a Tele Convertor at 18/01/2010 - 02:36

gregmoll
Hi,
I find these posts of your fascinating, thanks, art photography like you do is not my thing but you are making me far more aware of light and that I must look at it's effects with a different eye.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on What Kinds of Lighting Accessories are Needed to Sculpt or Paint with Light? Part 3 at 17/01/2010 - 07:21

gregmoll
Thanks I read about it and agree that it sounds perfect, did you see the price that's why I was thinking of using alcohol. If it must be PEC-12, then I'll use it but I have a lot of negatives.

Greg

Comment by gregmoll posted on Cleaning Negatives at 17/01/2010 - 07:03

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