The 100mm lenses are preferred by some because they place the subject a bit further away. Useful if it's a scorpion, or, conversely, if it's something that's feeling a bit nervous about you.

The best macros in the world are reckoned to be the Pentax 200mm macros, but they're not cheap. (For language scholars, that's an example of British understatement.)

Around the 100mm mark, you might find a Pentax M or A series lens that you can afford, or the Tamron SP 90mm, all of which are highly regarded.

The Pentax F and FA 100mm macros are great but perhaps outside your budget.

Recently I picked up a Pentax-A 50mm 1:2.8 for just under £40.00, and if you are quick you will see a K 1:1.4 being sold on Ebay by a member of this list. It's a good lens from a good seller, but because of his reputation the price is already more than I paid for mine.

Avoid the temptation to buy a so-called "macro zoom".

I don't have experierience of other makes' macros, but don't dismiss them, even Sigma. Many are good.

G

I'm afraid that there is seldom a happy outcome in these cases. It is rarely worth the expense to get a camera like this repaired, and the fault is likely to be beyond the capabilities of an average optimist with a screw-driver (people like me, in other words).

If it is still under a year old, then of course you can invoke the warranty. If it's just over a year old, and you bought it from a local camera shop, get MIL to go in and get tearful. Some women have made a fine art out of timely tears.

If you are using rechargeable batteries, then it is possible they might be the culprit. Try new batteries.

Otherwise, I can offer only condolences, but our resident camera repairer, Kim Coxon, might come up with something more helpful.

G

Mac,

After all I've done for you! You are so unfair.

There'll be no need to scrape. A low, deferential bow will be quite sufficient, especially when accompanied by a smart clicking of the heels, and a tug of the forelock. The hat, of course, should be swept down in a low arc.

G
(Off to stock up, quickly, on the last few SMC Takumars)

That is indeed a very high price for a 1.2.

I bought my K eighteen months ago, and paid £166.00. But it was off-Ebay, and I was able to play with it first. It was a risk-free deal. A few months later I saw one go for around £120.00.

G

Mac,

There are no bad Pentax 50s. I've had several varieties over the years, but presently my favourite is the K 1:1.2.

If you like doing portraits, it's a wonderful lens to have on a DSLR - and it gives correct exposures in Av mode with the lens wide open.

Stopped down it's as sharp as any other lens.

G

The AF idea is quite a good one. However, most of the good AF zooms go for a lot of money, and the ones that don't, aren't (good).

An exception is the F 70-210, which is first rate, and another exception is the FA 28-70 1:1.4. However, the latter is cheap because it sometimes falls apart. Don't pay too much.

And good luck with the Super Program. It's very pocketable when fitted with an M 40mm pancake. (Can't resist a little morsel of temptation!)

G

Mac,

Don't worry about resolutions - I can confirm from personal experience that they are easily broken*. There's nothing easier, in fact.

To the other recommendations I would add the following if you want something a bit longer:

M 75-150mm A really super lens.
A 70-210mm Heavy, but better than most modern zooms of the same range.

The Super Program (Super A in Europe) was Pentax's best manual-focus body with a full range of exposure modes. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

G

* I fell for an absolute bargain. A 50mm macro in as-new condition. SMCP-A 1:2.8, so it's perfect for macro work on a D.

If I owned them, I would want to get rid of them, too.

G

All lenses open up to full aperture when you mount them on the camera.

That way, you can see to focus and frame your shot.

When you press the shutter, the camera stops the lens down to the aperture you have selected.

Note that when using non-A lenses (like your M), the camera [if it is a DSLR] will only stop down to the set aperture if the exposure mode is set to manual. Otherwise, it will fire at full aperture.

G

Hello Bundybabe, and welcome.

This forum is a little different from most, in that it is refreshingly free from the whingers who festoon themselves round other forums like vultures by an abatoir.

You'll also find it is one big mentoring programme. Ask, and you shall receive.

And in answer to your question concerning focus points - switch them off (you'll find out how in the manual). Most people just use the centre point, unless they have a real and defined need for a different point.

Personally, I never use anything other than the centre point. If the subject isn't dead-centre, focus on the subject, keep the shutter slightly depressed to hold the focus, and then frame the picture as you want.

Good luck

G