to get sharper images out of the camera try this:
menu:
image tone : saturated
Saturation: +1
Sharpness: +3
Contrast:+1
fileformat raw+jpeg.

now goto custom function and set Program Line to 4 MTF

now when you're shooting at full zoom, make sure you are shooting between f8 and f16 (most compacts are between f8 and f22 at full zoom).

use sr or use a tripod.

(2 sec release or cable release on tripod).

process your raw file properly and apply the sharpening there and compare it to your oversharpened jpeg.
make big prints.
look for the differences in the prints.

you'll see why your dslr is a better camera, then.

can I share something?
I had a canon g5 and loved it.
compared to the raw files I got from my dslrs, the jpeg images at %100 did appear sharper.
but that was in camera processing. the raw files from the canon weren't sharper.
you can set your slr to add more sharpening to the jpeg files. it's in the menu.

most point and shoots will oversharpen and oversaturate the images they process in camera to appeal to the majority of consumers.

dslrs are about having choices and options. you can have less or equall or more sharpening if it fits your needs.

being able to say no, when you want your images to look the way you see it, not the way a marketing guy thinks most snapshooters want it.

I like it!
here's something to try....(just for fun...the image really is nice the way it is).
open it in photoshop (or Elements)
duplicate the layer.
set blend mode on new layer to "Multiply".
add a new adjustment layer...(levels, or curves)
adjust your black and white points, then move the midtones to lighten it up a bit...
I find that quick tip does amazing things for this type of lighting.
I get a soft hazy look from my 85mm soft focus lens, and this trick can really have a dramatic effect.

looking at your lens selection, I'd opt for the k10, if not found, then the k200.

the k20, may leave you wanting to buy newer glass.....

r u remembering to pay attention to the little bar graph?
that meter (certianly my meter) should be displaying a graph with 1/10 stop increments, so a reading of f5.6 that has 9 dashes underneath it is alot closer to f8 than the indicated f5.6......

I believe they only have two, mine is the one that doesn't have a spot meter adaptor on it.

I love my polaris flashmeter.
It's cheap, acurate to 1/10 stop and can be calibrated to match your sensor!

it has a pc socket, and can do incident and reflected settings for corded, cordless, flash and ambient light readings.

I tested it against my photo instructors sekonic (costing 3x as much) and it is accurate.

What is this? Highschool? for ducks?
Makes me feel like I should find an old yearbook...track down some people...and apologise....but that seems like a lot of work...
nice shot.

Here the one about the fella in a hospital that shows up for an operation in a tuxedo? The nurse asks him why he's all dressed up in formalwear for an operation...
to which the man answers...
"The Doctor says I's impotent....Well If I's gonna be impo'tant, might as well looks impo'tant..."

i fixed your links, here's your photos...