if i was gonna design an evil camera from the ground up for Pentax, here is what I'd do...
make the body cylindrical shaped, slightly wider than the k-mount, with a kmount on one end and an eyecup for the evf on the other and you'd hold it like a spotting scope.... literally, a little smaller than a soda pop can.... maybe a flip out lcd on the side of the "Can"... aps-c sensor and dedicated video button, otherwise the same internals as the k-5. and weather seal it.

so your camera body would be about the same size as your 10-17mm fisheye... with an oversized eyecup on one end and a k-mount on the other.

rumor has it to be a 12 mp camera with a compact camera sized sensor... smaller than apsc.
expect an auto 110 or cmount lensmount.

that 1.7 af does play well with the 100 mm macro....

as for a compact system with a small sensor... I think it makes sense for Pentax esp if it has an auto 110 mount or c mount...
but what about an aps-c sized sensor?
here is the competition:


Of course the Pentax kx beats them all: link
here is what a sony looks like with a pentax 21mm pancake lens:


so using a kmount adaptor on a fugly body does not exactly make for a compact system..
I for one am glad I went with a kr, but will wait and watch to see if Pentax releases a kx/kr spec'd camera with smaller dimensions and either an evf or pelicile/fixed mirror to compete.
A "Me to" version of the nx or nex would hardly be worth buying if it means another lens mount!

it is easy to bend the aperture tong on the inside of the lens mount, and if that is jammed, it would lock the aperture and cause your aperture to lock up, possibly resulting in a dim viewfinder...

Frank and Bill, got duped into attending a women's lib party and were unwittingly doped with estrogen.
Bill suddenly thought he was a fairy and believed he could fly.
Bill was the lucky one.

Caught him behaving for once:

the singrays are good.

pick up your damn camera, stick the 50mm on it, and go out there and look for two simple things.... anything you can shoot completely out of focus, to make an interesting bokeh blobs of light shot with... and anything you can find that fills the frame with a texture or pattern.... both of these subjects can be used in photoshop (think blend modes) for compositing or edges or effects on other images...

do that while you're in a rut, and you'll soon find your self out looking for images and ideas to composite with your new "Textures".....
here is a tutorial... or google it...link

a light meter is something you can definitely live without. Until you've used one that is... once you use one you'll probably never stop.
The main advantages with the light meter over the built-in meter is two fold.... when calculating light ratios matters esp with multi light set-ups, and where the lighting would normally fool a reflected meter reading, an incident reading will work...

so for zone system affectionados, a spot meter is very useful, but you can make do with the camera meter.

I'd like to believe that my (very accurate BTW) inexpensive polaris meter has shaved off thousands upon thousands of "Test shots" and "Bracket shots" therefore has extended the life of my cameras, and studio strobes over the years....