hefty1 and George L are both right.
Miranda (the company) made very good SLRs way back. They ceased production in 1978. They never made any lenses.
Miranda (the brand) is a name owned by Dixons. They never made any lenses either.
This does not make the zoom a bad lens as such - as an example, the Olympus OM lens range was made by several different companies. The real question, surely, is whether the lens in question is worth £20. Offer the dealer a £20 pound note as a deposit, take the lens outside and try it across a range of subjects, return the lens and get your £20 back. Now negotiate a returnable deposit while you go away and look at the results. If you have a laptop, you could do this in the shop. If the dealer does not want to play, then walk ...
Geoff

Stefan, your timing is perfect.
I was just about to research some of these sites - now I do not need to.
Thanks
Geoff

The P30 has now been sold.
I have now found the manual for the MZ-M and this is included.
Geoff

Looked at the web-page.
The 425 area code is for the districts NE from Seattle, WA.
Look up the city of Bellevue to get an idea of where.

The reviews of their service are either excellent or poor - nothing in between. Do read their words carefully, especially those on warranties.
As I recall, Tim Houghton raised the point about dealing with them about four months ago.
Geoff

Having just acquired a P50 body, the following film bodies are now surplus to my needs:

P30. Light rubbing on the corners of the bottom plate. Wind-on lever is slow to return. Paint slightly chipped around the opening edge of the loading door. The slot in the battery cap is scuffed. Otherwise everything seems to work as it should (shutter speeds, timer, viewfinder indication LEDs) £20.00 posted.

ME II Super. Slight scuff marks on bottom plate (maybe from winder) and top plate (neck-strap rings). Paint is lightly chipped along the bottom edge of body (front and back) and there is one single small chip on the top plate below the M of ME. The lens mount ring has some very light pitting below the X of Pentax (looks like dust, but it is light pitting). The slot in the battery cap is scuffed. Otherwise all functions seem normal.
£35.00 posted

MZ-M. One small scuff on the corner of the bottom plate, at the door opening end. The back is covered in what seems to be the “sticky backed plastic” beloved of Blue Peter presenters. When I examined this closely (after I stopped using it) it seems as though the back has been exposed to heat (and this is visible more on the inside), and the plastic has been applied to disguise the fact. The rest of the body, and the top plate appear unmarked. Everything worked when I took it out of service. £20.00 posted.

Also:
ERC to fit ME II. Generally in good condition, but with one crease across the nose portion (in front of the pentaprism) and some creasing where the top section folds around the bottom plate. £10.00 posted.

You can always try an offer - particularly for the ME II and case together.

Kris thinks it is a Takumar and not a S-M-C lens and I would agree.
That would make it a lens produced (probably) between 1967 and 1971 (when the S-M-C version came out.
Either way, that means that it would pre-date my Tamron A-2 by several years (the Tamron f3.5-17mm was produced between '79 and'84)
So, it is a fair guess as to which lens inspired which.
Geoff

With a bit more time than I have today, I would be looking into the dates when this lens was offered compared to the Tamron Adaptall-2 offering of f3.5-17mm.
It was the rotating filters that caught my eye - something that the Tamron has, and which can easily get accidentally set half way between filters (gives a really strange effect :blushand which forces a routine of always moving the filter control to one end of it's travel (no filter at either end).
Makes one wonder which lens was the inspiration for the other.
Must check when I get back from the hospital (unless someone already knows).
Geoff

Morgan are now offering PSE 8 for £32 plus p&p.
I guess that you are right on the money about PSE 9 being released "real soon now", if not already.
Oh well, I'm getting on quite well with version 7.
Geoff

organicimagery wrote@
Slowly and carefully!
But seriously - get a set of small brushes from artists camel-hair up to very soft 12mm domestic paint, and a soft toothbrush. These will take dust out from all the little nooks and crannies.
Now get some cotton buds and some old-fashioned lighter fuel and use that to remove the grease where a hand has been, and the dust is now too hard for the soft brushes to work. This is also a good way of reviving the engraving on a lens barrel where the paint has got a bit dirty. Don't expect miracles - this will clean the paint, but it will not make up for fading. I've just done a 58mm Helios this way.
But do remember the slowly and carefully bit ... ...
Geoff

See the advice from John and Stefan:
Vinegar, then rinse, then dry. The more you can remove without anything getting into the works, the better. Sometimes you can clear the vinegar with a wet swab while you are holding the winder at an angle to keep the inside dry. You can always finish the drying with a hair dryer.
If you do not get all the corrosion out, then there is a good chance of rust in the future - this could lead to a complete failure. So the big question is "How long do you intend to use the winder for?". Two years? Five years? Ten years? The more you clean, the longer it will last (if you do it carefully).