DoctorJeff

Joined: 12th January 2009

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DoctorJeff
I was always under the impression that you needed a light source "above" the negative to enable proper scanning.
Otherwise, you could just lay the neg straight onto the scanner glass (thinks to self - must try this and see what happens). Of course, the average document scanner will not have the resolution of a dedicated neg scanner (but that would never bother the Lomo gang).
Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on DigitaLIZA at 16/09/2012 - 11:07

DoctorJeff
PM sent.
Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on Samsung GX1L (istDL2) with 18-55mm kit lens plus Pentax 50-200mm DA L at 04/09/2012 - 14:38

DoctorJeff
I am sure that there are several of us who would be glad to advise you - if you will tell us which car to buy next

Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on Need an advice at 01/09/2012 - 22:35

DoctorJeff
Algernon wrote:
That is correct, but if you remove the central adapter from a T2 mount it's the same as a T mount.
Sorry, Algi, I cannot agree with this. Maybe there is a third T-mount variant that neither of us has ever seen.

The O/D of the parallel portion (onto whick the camera body specific adapter fits, and which is retained by three Vee-point grubscrews) on my Vivitar 500 mm mirror is 46.5 mm. It is rather hard to see how removing an M42 X .75 mm portion could leave behind a larger plain portion without arranging matters so that the overall length of the mounting had its length drastically altered (with a consequent effect on infinity focus).

I have never had any problem obtaining small(under 3mm dia) screws in short lengths - provided I bought them in lots of 100 plus. My own need at one time was for M2 x 3,socket head, countersunk screws (used four at a time and four more provided as spares).

Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on Tamron BBAR and Tamron Adaptall mounts at 11/08/2012 - 09:36

DoctorJeff
Algernon wrote:
By T-Mount do you mean the one held on by 3 grub screws or was it just screwed on (42mm x 0.75mm thread), I've only ever used T2 so I'm not sure of the fixing
The T-mount with the fine M42 thread is the T2. Some adapters for the T" were made so that the assembly could be rotated to put the focussing index mark at 12o/c. This was locked in place with three screws.

The first T-mount was a plain parallel standout portion, with a Vee groove. The mount adapter was bored with a fine clearance onto the standout. The three pointed grubscrews locked this into position, and also allowed alignment of the index mark.

Just do not, never, ever, try to screw a T2 lens into a M42 mount camera. You may be lucky and get it out. The threads may not be too badly damaged. But, you might not be lucky!

Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on Tamron BBAR and Tamron Adaptall mounts at 10/08/2012 - 17:56

DoctorJeff
Quote:
"And do you know of an adapter that will allow me to mount the Tamron T-mount lenses (from the 1970s) on my K100D?"
Which T-mount Paul?
If they have a thread (T2), then you start by thinking T2 to M42, and M42 to K, I assume that there are some people who can supply T2 to K adapters, but only SRB Griturn come to mind.
If it is an original T-mount (secured with three vee-nosed grub screws, sometimes called T1) then SRB might ... just might ... be able to do a direct K-mount adapter. I do have an original T-mount 500 mm mirror with a K-mount fitting, but it is the only one I have ever come across.

Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on Tamron BBAR and Tamron Adaptall mounts at 10/08/2012 - 14:04

DoctorJeff
Wrong question, Paul.

You need a K or KA adapter to fit Adaptall-2 lenses onto any Pentax with a K or KA mount - K100D included.

With a K-adapter on the K100D, you will need to familiarise yourself with the operation of manual lenses. Hint - search on "uses aperture ring" and "green button".

K-adapters are quite cheap, KA ones run £45-£55, but it is well worth getting one (or more).

Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on Tamron BBAR and Tamron Adaptall mounts at 05/08/2012 - 23:11

DoctorJeff
snaphappyscottiedog wrote:

I myself have very little knowledge of teaching so if there are any teachers or those who look after mental health people (if i've said this wrong please forgive me) that could give me advice of any sort i would be most greatful. I have already started a raport with the guys in the group joining in some of the other outdoor activities that they do.
1 - Remind them that you are not a trained teacher - "so if something need more explanation ---ASK".

2 - I have never worked with people with mental health problems, only with the disabled. The principle is probably the same: they can do most everything that you can - but they are normal and you are the abnormal one.

3 - Every time you introduce a new concept or technique, make sure that everyone has grasped it before you move on.

4 - For a bit of practice, put your right hand in an old sock (boxing glove if you have one) and start to demonstrate the normal use of your camera. You will find way of coping with your new disability, and this may give you a handle on how to put things across to your class.

HTH Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on I've not posted for some time..... at 26/07/2012 - 14:19

DoctorJeff
Pentaxophile wrote:
DoctorJeff wrote:
Now, to me, that is not exactly what you would call "bugger all difference". Resizing was done in PS Elements 10. No other PP was applied. And yes, I have the original DNG file as well (I always shoot RAW + JPEG).

Geoff
Geoff, what I think you have done is resample the image. You have changed the number of pixels. Is it really still 1400x1050 pixels? I'm going to go out on a limb and say your resized image was 336 pixels long. Do you think you could check that?
Sorry! my two images are both 1400 x 1050 Pixels.Yours are not. And that gives a clue The two options are to constrain proportions or to resample - you can choose one and the other is not available. Yes, I want to retain the size, not the proportions; you have refrained from resampling and lost the desired size by retaining the proportions.

Either way, both my images are the same pixel dimensions, but the file sizes are different (and the image dimensions in inches, and the quality, are also different). I could spend a lot of time playing around with a number of images in different editing programs, but I have to prepare for a hospital appointment tomorrow.

Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on Resolution at 23/07/2012 - 23:52

DoctorJeff
Pentaxophile wrote:
DoctorJeff wrote:

Digital Projections submitted should be 8bit JPEG and at a resolution of 72 pixels/inch (so that entries may be e-mailed).RGB Mode and sRGB Colour Space.
1400 x 1050 pixels Landscape. Max height of portrait to be 1050 pixels.
Surely the 'pixels/inch' bit is irrelevant. It will make bugger all difference to the file size . The key information is 1400 x 1050 pixels ....
Well, you would think that was the case. I had never bothered with the 72PPI since I have always handed my entries in on a memory stick. So, before I sent an e-mail winging its way to our Comp. Sec., I did a quick test.

An original image straight from my K20 in "Best quality" JPEG
10.7 Mb

An original image straight from my K20 in "Best quality", resized to 1400 x 1050 pix
1.7 Mb

An original image straight from my K20 in "Best quality", resized to 1400 x 1050 pix at 72PPI
540 Kb

Now, to me, that is not exactly what you would call "bugger all difference". Resizing was done in PS Elements 10. No other PP was applied. And yes, I have the original DNG file as well (I always shoot RAW + JPEG).

Geoff

Comment by DoctorJeff posted on Resolution at 23/07/2012 - 21:02

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